In 1962 Eliot Watrous happened upon the little island of Paxos. He returned two years later and bought a small plot of land, just outside the capital village of Gaios, and a local team of builders constructed a small, simple house above the sea – based upon a design drawn on the back of a cigarette packet.
In 1965, Eliot and his wife and four sons, spent the months of July and August in their half finished Paxos home. In those days the island’s electricity was produced (sporadically) by a diesel-fuelled generator, the ferry journey from Corfu took up to five hours, provisions were limited and it was just two years before a military dictatorship overthrew the Greek government.
Over the next few years the Watrous family spent long summers in both work (on the house) and play (deserted beaches and more donkeys than cars).
The house was known as Eliot Villa. It was sold to one of Greece’s most famous folk singers, who converted and modernised the property to make it one of the most comfortable retreats on the stretch of coastline just outside Gaios.
Eliot Villa can now be booked through Ionian Villas. It has 4 bedrooms, a pool, privacy and is just 100 metres from a small beach.
You might feel hesitant about an Ionian holiday in October. Will the weather be ok? Will sufficient ferries be operating? Will tavernas and shops be open?
A few of us from the office travel to the Ionian in October in order to see property owners, take new photos, find out what changes are planned for the following year and then to check the local cuisine, sample new wines and gauge sea temperatures!
This year we spent the second week of October on Paxos.
A few wispy clouds on the last day but otherwise clear blue skies and temperatures in the late 20’s. We stayed on the west coast – hypnotically vibrant sunsets.
West coast sunset
With the good weather, nearly all of Paxos’ tavernas and café bars planned to stay open until the end of October. Supermarkets and shops were well stocked. Fruit aplenty: fresh canary melons, peaches, nectarines, grapes, pineapples, kiwi fruits, bananas – to name a few.
Sea temperature seemed warmer than August and we tested it every day – such is our dedication to getting our facts right!
Marmari beach
Morning temperatures of early 20’s make for perfect walking conditions. The sides of roads and donkey paths bordered by swathes of wild cyclamen and crocus. Branches of olive trees starting to droop with the weight of ripening olives. Black olive nets ready to catch the winter crop.
Roadside cyclamen
Paxos Cats
Village cats basking in the afternoon sun. Local islanders enjoying the peace and quiet of a waterfront cafenion. Hire boats being taken out of the water to leave village waterfronts with colourful wooden fishing boats. Gaios fish market selling an abundance of freshly caught fish. The opportunity to commandeer deserted beaches. The beautiful blues of the sea within sheltered coves below hillsides of olive and cypress trees.
And then, all too soon, the wake-up call to leave and return to colder, greyer shores.
Departing Paxos at sunrise
Corfu airport comparatively busy but a recently opened airside lounge offers a peaceful escape with comfy seating, complimentary snacks and drinks and even a porter to escort you to the lounge via a fast track security check. Ask us for details!
New Corfu Airport Lounge
Try an October break to the Ionian – the perfect tonic to prepare for winter back home.
(A glimpse into the traditional festivities of a Greek Orthodox Easter)
Over 90% of Greeks identify with the Greek Orthodox Christian faith. Their church has played a strong part in their history and religious traditions are important to them. One of the most celebrated events of the calendar is the Orthodox Easter and this year their Easter falls on 16th April.
Festivities begin about a month before Lent with Carnival Season (“Apokries”): celebrations of street parties, parades and masquarades – originally pagan rituals worshipping Dionysos, the God of wine, agriculture, fertility, dance and fun.
Easter Fireworks above the ‘Old Fortress of Corfu’
Clean Monday (“Cathara Deftera”) marks the end of Apokries and families mark the start of Lent, when the fasting begins, with picnics of seafood, taramasalata, halva (a corn starch sweet) and unleavened bread (“Lagana”), traditionally accompanied by kite flying.
Those observing the tradition of Lent will abstain from consuming meat, dairy products, alcohol and sugar.
On the eve of Easter Sunday village communities gather with lit candles and wait for the priest to declare that “Christ is Risen”. Church bells and fireworks then celebrate the hour and then “Magiritsa”, a soup made from lamb offal, is served.
Easter Sunday is the day of the greatest feast of all. Lambs are roasted on outdoor spits and the groaning Easter table welcomes family and friends for a day of indulgence.
On the table will be bowls or baskets of bright red eggs. The eggs are dyed red on Holy Thursday, a custom which goes back to the early Christians and symbolises the sacrificial blood of Christ.
A young Alex on Paxos at EasterAlex, Vivienne & family friends enjoying Easter in the early 90’s
The cracking of the red eggs has its own symbolism. The hard shell of the egg symbolizes the sealed tomb of Christ while the cracking means that the tomb has been broken and that Christ has been resurrected from the dead.
Egg cracking (“Tsougrisma”) is a bit like a game of conkers! Each player holds a red egg and one taps the end of their egg against the end of the other player’s egg. The goal is to crack the opponent’s egg without cracking yours. When one end is cracked, the winner uses the same end of their egg to try to crack the other undamaged end of the opponent’s egg. The player who successfully cracks the eggs of the other players is declared the winner and, it is said, will have good luck during the year.
Traditionally, when tapping the egg, the first player would say to his opponent “Christos anesti” (“Christ has risen!”) to which the second person responds “Alithos anesti!” (“He Truly Has”).
Filippos & Alexandros with their painted eggs
Watch out for the occasional cheat, who moves a thumb nail unobtrusively and quickly over their egg tip just as their opponent delivers a tap!
An understanding of simple physics helps: the pointiest egg should perform better.
Hold your egg in a grip as close to the tapping end as possible, so that it can only be hit at the curviest/pointiest spot on the top while the sides are supported.
Have you thought about switching your July and August Summer holiday for a Spring holiday? We like to visit the Ionian every May with our family and here’s why we think it is the perfect time to visit….
In May the islands and mainland Ionian coast are usually less crowded, flights can be cheaper, and villas tend to have good availability.
The islands begin to come to life with tavernas and shops opening after Greek Easter and there is a nice energy in the air for the new season ahead.
Day temperatures sit between 20 – 25 degrees, with evenings slightly cooler and night-time around 14 degrees; perfect for families like ours with young children.
The Ionian is usually a blaze with spring colours and the cooler temperatures can allow for a more active day of walking, running, yoga and cycling.
Sea temperatures are just about warm enough to take a dip and you often find you have the beach all to yourselves!!
If this appeals to you, we still have some fantastic properties available this May half term…
If you are interested in booking any of the villas above or would like to know about other available properties, please contact Alex and Samantha for prices and special offers enquiries@ionian-villas.co.uk
The Ionian Islands have the most wonderful, magnetic energy… warm air, blue skies, turquoise waters, hillsides full of olive and cypress trees, fresh seasonal locally grown food and the sun to nourish the soul. A perfect escape for wellness and yoga practice.
If you are a yoga/pilates teacher looking to host a retreat we believe we have some of the best properties in the Ionian. Our partnerships with the retreat owners will allow you to create the most extraordinary experience for your guests.
How it works…. we can help you decide which island is best suited to you and give you an idea of the cost. We have a selection of properties specifically designed for retreats with a variety of group sizes. We will then put you in touch with the owner of the venue or our island manager so that they can help you plan everything.
There are some incredible yoga and pilates teachers who live on the Ionian islands. If you have booked a property with us and wish to practice whilst on holiday, we can put you in touch with a teacher for a private 1-1 class or small group classes.
Take a look at some of our favourite retreat properties….
Kefalonia
Villa Olivestone is a private, secluded and peaceful hideaway for those wanting a special escape from a busy world outside. The property lies in a 32-acre private estate above the sandy beaches of the south coast, in the foothills of Mount Aenos. The property sleeps up to 12 guests in comfortable accommodation; there are many areas for social gatherings or quiet spots for total relaxation.
The villa comes with a cook, Yolanda who will prepare wonderful fresh dishes for your retreat guests. Other activities such as massage therapies and skippered boat trips can be arranged as part a tailor-made programme.
Paxos is lucky enough to have (in our opinion) one of the best Yoga teachers in Greece. German born Sandra has lived on the island for many years, she speaks a variety of languages including, German, English and Greek. She teaches a mix of Ashtanga, Hatha and Vinyasa flow, inspired by her practice in Berlin and India. Many of the Watrous family have attended her classes and we think she really is a special teacher!
Sandra also offers a range of other activities including dance, meditation, Pilates, body toning, hit, aqua fit and SUP yoga. Sandra does open classes and 1-1 private sessions either at your villa or in her own yoga studio.
Our suggestion would be to rent the fabulous Velianitatika Retreat, as this happens to be next door to Sandra’s studio, in the sleepy village of Velianitatika. Perfect for a group of yoga friends who want something more personalised and bespoke.
Vassiliki: Five spectacular villa; Icarus, Angeliki, Ismini, Grigoria and Villa Of Light sit perched high above the sea on the south coast looking down to the port of Vassiliki. The views across Vassiliki Bay and to the islands of Ithaca and Kefalonia are breathtaking. There are individual swimming pools for each villa, a large yoga studio and a retreat chef. The retreat can accommodate up to 25 guests (including teachers). The villas can be booked individually or all together depending on retreat size. Massage, Mediterranean cooking lessons, sporting activities, walks/hikes and day trips can also be arranged.
Geni: Surrounded by olive and pine trees and wild myrtle bushes, sit three beautifully designed villas; Antonella, Rosetta and Stefania. They have a special hilltop position with dramatic views from the pool terraces across Vlicho Bay. A variety of balconies and terraces cater for both sun and shade and each property has a private infinity pool. Above the villas amongst the olive groves overlooking Dessimi and Vlicho bay is a closed yoga studio surrounded by glass windows. Yoga can also be practiced in the open studio which overlooks the infinity pool and Vlicho bay, It is 70 sqm and crafted to host a group of 24 people.
Each villa sleeps 8 guests, so a retreat capacity of up to 24 (including teachers), the villas can be booked individually or all together. Adonis, a fellow yogi is the retreat chef, he cooks traditional Greek dishes or can cater to a vegan/health menu. Tavernas and Dessimi Beach are also within walking distance.
Ithaca
For a smaller group The Loutsa Retreat is perfect. The villa sleeps up to 8 guests and has total privacy and tranquility. Large terraces open out to beautiful gardens where it is possible to have sun or shade throughout the day. A curving swimming pool sweeps through a small olive grove, bordered by hedges of lavender.
A cook can be arranged for your retreat or if you would prefer to provide your guests with bed and breakfast only, the owner offers a complimentary organic breakfast delivered to your door each morning. The retreat is a 3-minute walk to Loutsa Beach and a 10-minute walk to a waterfront taverna and the port of Vathy.
The five Sunset Cottages are perched up high on Ithaca’s west coast, two kilometres south of Stavros village and just a five minute drive to Polis Bay beach. Each cottage sleeps 2 with a sea-facing terrace and a small garden of citrus and peach trees. The larger terraces are perfect to practice yoga and there is a swimming pool for all to enjoy. The cottages would be perfect for a smaller budget and retreat.
Kalokeri is a beautifully elegant villa set within 4.5 acres of private land. It has dramatic views across the sea to Kefalonia and the Greek mainland. The property sleeps 12 and has an infinity pool, a stone Pool House, beautiful gardens and terraces for relaxing, activities including table tennis and now a fantastic new yoga deck! The deck looks out to sea with a spellbinding panorama. Sunrise meditation or early morning yoga is a truly magical experience at Kalokeri. Further activities including massage therapies and a retreat cook can be arranged.
Corfu
Morning yoga on the sand or amongst the olive trees is on offer at On the beach Alpha, Beta & Gamma. These three villas are less then 80 metres from the beach of Milou Bay. Villa Alpha sleeps 10, Beta and Gamma each sleep 12. All 3 villas have modern comforts inside and outside – the owners describe the overall design and décor as “boho-luxury”. Elements of the natural surroundings have been incorporated to create the feel of a countrified retreat by the sea.
On the Beach, AlphaOn the Beach, Alpha
If you are interested in booking any of the properties above for a future retreat and would like to know more – call or email us.
We hope that you have enjoyed a relaxed and “forget all the doom & gloom” Christmas and that you are looking forward to a positive new year. Difficult when there is so much uncertainty and grief in the world but important to face 2023 with a determined spirit. In the hope that thoughts of holidays in the sun can bring some colour to your mid-winter, we’d like to tell you about what is new for Ionian Villas in 2023. Within the next few weeks we will be announcing our new villa programme in Epirus, on the Ionian coastline of the Greek mainland.
Sivota and Paleros are small ports on the mainland. Sivota is opposite the south-eastern tip of Corfu and Paleros is opposite the north-east coast of Lefkas. Both seaside villages are excellent locations for those who look for more exploration and choice of activities than offered on the islands. Wild and untouched inland and a coastline of deserted beaches, only reachable by boat.
Paleros is a 30 minute drive from Lefkas and Sivota is a 1-hour drive from Lefkas. Good choices for a 2-centre holiday combining Lefkas with the mainland.
On a hillside above Sivota, Villa Infinity looks out across the sea to Paxos and Corfu.
Our Touch of Luxury programme now includes some stunning villas on Corfu. Villa Callisto sleeps up to 12 and is just a few steps away from Agia Triada beach, near Paliokastritsa.
A new Greek TV series, called “Maestro in Blue”, will appear on Netflix in the new year (dates to be confirmed). The series was filmed on Paxos in 2022 and tells the story of a music festival being organised during the Covid-19 pandemic. “In the nine episodes, director Christoforos Papakaliatis narrates a story of passion and conflict.”
Our Paxos manager, Dimitris, and his parents (who had walk-on roles) and actress Kleilia Andriolatou. Dimitris, his dogs and actor Christoforos Papakaliatis
Filming on Paxos’ west coast
In the Spring 2023 we will be introducing our new website – bigger pictures and more user-friendly. For 2023 we have added new villas on each island. Here is a selection according to villa size:
Chiara on Lefkas is a spacious retreat for up to 20 people with a special west coast location for sunsets and sandy beaches.
Contessa Sara on Corfu sleeps up to 12 and is a perfect spot for those wanting to be within close distance of beaches, watersports, tavernas and shops.
Yannisatika House on Paxos, sleeping up to 10, is a well kept secret – one of the most beautiful properties on the island
Fortouna on Corfu, sleeps up to 8 and is just 35 steps away from the sea.
Salto on Kefalonia is a sumptuous villa just above the sea for up to 6 people.
Lucie, sleeping up to 4, is a 10 minute walk through olive groves to Lakka port on Paxos.
Apaggio on Ithaca is a one-bedroom cottage with panoramic views over Vathy Bay and across the sea to Atokos island and the Greek mainland.
New to our West Sussex team is Natalie Verrall. Natalie wears an Administration and Social Media Manager cap.
Finally, we have joined forces with the Ionian Environment Foundation in a venture to support various projects to protect the Ionian’s environment. Watch this space!
Hello, let me introduce myself, Sue, Ionian Villa’s contact on the beautifully un-spoilt island of Ithaca and wedding planner of stylish bespoke celebrations. I moved to Ithaca approximately ten years ago after living on Kefalonia for many years and after meeting my husband!
Ithaca was no stranger to me as often I would hop on the ferry from Kefalonia to visit this special island. After planning our own wedding, I decided to combine and channel my local knowledge, organizational skills, and language ability, establishing Ithaki Weddings, to assist other couples realise their dreams of hosting their weddings in such a unique location.
Waterside churches, private villas, olive groves and secluded beaches are just some of the locations and venues my brides have chosen.Taking inspiration from the islands’ natural beauty every wedding I plan and design is bespoke to each couple ensuring that their dream day is exactly as they envisioned.
Villa venues are always popular offering complete privacy for the perfect intimate wedding or elopement.
A beach wedding is the dream location for many, with so many secluded and beautiful beaches around Ithaca’s rugged coastline it’s a tough choice to make, but a beach accessible only by boat is always the first choice for many couples.
Ithaca is a truly magical island which once visited is very hard to forget, a local legend implies ‘that if you cup your hand under the Kalamos spring and drink its’ ice-cold water you will return again to Ithaca’.
If like me you’ve fallen in love with Ithaca and dream of hosting your own destination wedding on the island, contact me and together we will make it happen.
My name is Andrew and I am a self taught private chef, working and living on the small Greek island of Paxos. I first met Alex and Cat from the Ionian Villas team when I moved to Paxos in 2015. At the time they were residing full time on Paxos and now having left the island they remain good friends. This is the first of a number of blogs working in collaboration with Ionian Villas to illustrate the finer details of life on Paxos. The stories, the food and the people that make this island life so special!
Some time in 2015 after years of early morning commutes, uninspiring career choices and very little free time, I made the decision to swap the tube lines of London for the donkey tracks of Paxos on a permanent basis!
What followed in those first few months on Paxos was a passion to better understand the processes and traditions of the island and specifically, its food. Almost straight away I found myself cooking simple dishes; grilling just caught sardines over charcoal in my small yard, slowly roasting lamb and herbs in the cottage oven and assembling fresh salads with peppery local olives and hunks of sharp creamy feta. I absorbed information wherever and whenever I could, learning about the subtleties of foraging for horta, the many ways one could make taramasalata and the simple pleasures of allowing ingredients to speak for themselves.
Andrew & Fotini
It was through meeting my partner Fotini in 2017 that I began to understand from her family the importance of food and how central it is to life in Greece. Over time her grandparents shared their knowledge around the production and of food on the island and I began to better appreciate the importance of seasonality and the significance of local ingredients. I helped the family collect olives, make wine, and spent evenings picking whitebait from their fishing nets and in return they shared their home and their dinner table with me. In the spring of 2018 Fotini and I decided to set up a small catering business offering simple food cooked on site at people’s villas. Fotini’s vigour for all things Paxos and her unbridled passion for hospitality inevitably proved popular. She would chat to guests over dinner, sharing stories of Paxos winters and our future plans and in the process made good friends.
The food itself drew inspiration from the island, offering modern alternatives to the familiarity of traditional taverna dining while still harnessing local ingredients at its core. Dishes like our black garlic lamb with broad beans and artichokes picked from Fotini’s land on neighbouring Antipaxos and the lemon tart and rosemary ice cream, – in which everything but the sugar and flour comes straight from our garden – are just two examples of our approach.
Today we continue with the business, each season drawing on our surroundings and experiences and connecting with new and returning guests alike. Now in the winter we have an opportunity to prepare and plan, but also in writing this, to share some of our favourite recipes and the stories that have inspired them. We hope you enjoy them!
For more information or to book for a private dining experience in your villa, contact Andrew & Fotini via the website Supper on Paxos or follow on Instagram @andrewhindley
We would like to introduce two new members of our team: Samantha DeCourcy, who joined us in November, and Reggie, who is the office’s official shredder of sensitive documents and socks.
If, like us, you are concerned about the fragile environment of the Ionian islands, you might be interested to know that we are setting up a partnership with the Ionian Environment Foundation. We will keep you in touch with partnered projects for each island.
If you were unable to
enjoy a tactile Christmas with the whole family, you might be looking forward
to a family holiday in 2022 as a positive step towards more freedom. We have
some new properties to entice you:
Back in the days when the Watrous family ran the company, Greek Islands Club, they started a villa programme on the Sporades islands. After a recent revisit, we felt that Alonissos still offers a special escape from the crowds: a rich green interior of umbrella pine forest, olive groves and plum orchards; small, secluded beaches and deep sea caves carved out of steep cliff faces; sheltered ports with a colourful jostle of large and small fishing caiques. Contact us if you might be interested in an Alonissos escape with such properties as Paparouna and Fisherman’s cottage.
We still offer the chance to defer your 2022 holiday to a future date if, as a result of Covid conditions, travel in 2022 is prevented by Foreign & Commonwealth Office advice or a cancelled flight.
Please let us know if we can help you plan a special Ionian escape.
We understand the continued anxiety that you will all be feeling about when your future plans can be realised. Not just holidays but a general return to a sense of normal life.
All six of us Watrous’
at Ionian Villas have flights booked during May as part of our early season
island visits to meet our villa owners and look at prospective new properties.
We wait to see if these visits will be possible.
We keep in regular contact with all our villa owners and we know that Greece is desperate to welcome you this year. Continued lockdown measures in Greece are still in place and a national rollout of vaccines (click here for details) are hoped to ensure a safe welcome for visitors this summer.
Our booking conditions
ask for a final balance payment 8 weeks before the booking start date. In order
to hold on to bookings and to show understanding and goodwill, nearly all of
our villa owners are happy to be flexible on this so if you need to wait a bit
longer for a confirmed green light to travel (fly) – please speak to us and we
will let you know how flexible the villa owner can be.
Directors’ Lockdown meeting
Alex and Catherine’s children, Archie & Norah, are growing fast – no house is big enough for lockdown kids. Alex spends any free time on his passion for trail running. Catherine runs after Archie & Norah. Vivienne has a yoga & pilates routine and David waits for the garden to break into Spring mode.
Like you, we miss
Greece passionately and we hope that travel will be possible so that all of us
can heave a happy sigh of relief on a deserted Ionian island beach in the not
too distant future.
