My name is Andrew and I am a self taught private chef, working and living on the small Greek island of Paxos. I first met Alex and Cat from the Ionian Villas team when I moved to Paxos in 2015. At the time they were residing full time on Paxos and now having left the island they remain good friends. This is the first of a number of blogs working in collaboration with Ionian Villas to illustrate the finer details of life on Paxos. The stories, the food and the people that make this island life so special!
Some time in 2015 after years of early morning commutes, uninspiring career choices and very little free time, I made the decision to swap the tube lines of London for the donkey tracks of Paxos on a permanent basis!
What followed in those first few months on Paxos was a passion to better understand the processes and traditions of the island and specifically, its food. Almost straight away I found myself cooking simple dishes; grilling just caught sardines over charcoal in my small yard, slowly roasting lamb and herbs in the cottage oven and assembling fresh salads with peppery local olives and hunks of sharp creamy feta. I absorbed information wherever and whenever I could, learning about the subtleties of foraging for horta, the many ways one could make taramasalata and the simple pleasures of allowing ingredients to speak for themselves.
Andrew & Fotini
It was through meeting my partner Fotini in 2017 that I began to understand from her family the importance of food and how central it is to life in Greece. Over time her grandparents shared their knowledge around the production and of food on the island and I began to better appreciate the importance of seasonality and the significance of local ingredients. I helped the family collect olives, make wine, and spent evenings picking whitebait from their fishing nets and in return they shared their home and their dinner table with me. In the spring of 2018 Fotini and I decided to set up a small catering business offering simple food cooked on site at people’s villas. Fotini’s vigour for all things Paxos and her unbridled passion for hospitality inevitably proved popular. She would chat to guests over dinner, sharing stories of Paxos winters and our future plans and in the process made good friends.
The food itself drew inspiration from the island, offering modern alternatives to the familiarity of traditional taverna dining while still harnessing local ingredients at its core. Dishes like our black garlic lamb with broad beans and artichokes picked from Fotini’s land on neighbouring Antipaxos and the lemon tart and rosemary ice cream, – in which everything but the sugar and flour comes straight from our garden – are just two examples of our approach.
Today we continue with the business, each season drawing on our surroundings and experiences and connecting with new and returning guests alike. Now in the winter we have an opportunity to prepare and plan, but also in writing this, to share some of our favourite recipes and the stories that have inspired them. We hope you enjoy them!
For more information or to book for a private dining experience in your villa, contact Andrew & Fotini via the website Supper on Paxos or follow on Instagram @andrewhindley
We understand the continued anxiety that you will all be feeling about when your future plans can be realised. Not just holidays but a general return to a sense of normal life.
All six of us Watrous’
at Ionian Villas have flights booked during May as part of our early season
island visits to meet our villa owners and look at prospective new properties.
We wait to see if these visits will be possible.
We keep in regular contact with all our villa owners and we know that Greece is desperate to welcome you this year. Continued lockdown measures in Greece are still in place and a national rollout of vaccines (click here for details) are hoped to ensure a safe welcome for visitors this summer.
Our booking conditions
ask for a final balance payment 8 weeks before the booking start date. In order
to hold on to bookings and to show understanding and goodwill, nearly all of
our villa owners are happy to be flexible on this so if you need to wait a bit
longer for a confirmed green light to travel (fly) – please speak to us and we
will let you know how flexible the villa owner can be.
Directors’ Lockdown meeting
Alex and Catherine’s children, Archie & Norah, are growing fast – no house is big enough for lockdown kids. Alex spends any free time on his passion for trail running. Catherine runs after Archie & Norah. Vivienne has a yoga & pilates routine and David waits for the garden to break into Spring mode.
Like you, we miss
Greece passionately and we hope that travel will be possible so that all of us
can heave a happy sigh of relief on a deserted Ionian island beach in the not
too distant future.
The Best-Shaw family are regular visitors to Paxos and this
year they were our first clients of the season to experience the journey after Greek
airports opened to British airlines on 15th July.
Here is their report of the experience:
“We weren’t sure what to expect on our journey to Paxos this
year but I’m pleased to report that it was far easier and less stressful than
usual.
Early morning of 16th July – we arrived at
EasyJet check-in to find no queue and were checked in within two minutes. We
then sailed through security to find a relatively quiet departure lounge where
everyone was social distancing. There were a few shops and food outlets open,
all with minimal queues.
The plane was almost full, with everyone wearing masks but
very civilised boarding and disembarking with passengers and crew respecting
the EasyJet guidelines. There was a reduced trolley service and no hot drinks
but you are allowed to take your own food and drinks on board and remove your
mask while eating and drinking.
On arrival at Corfu airport the plane parked just outside
the terminal so we could walk to passport control, which was very efficient and
went smoothly. Approximately forty people off our flight were selected for a
Covid test. One member of our party was tested which only took a couple of
minutes. She was not told to self-isolate and was never contacted with the
results.
The baggage claim was quick and efficient and no risk of not
being able to social distance due to the reduced number of flights arriving.
There were plenty of taxis available at the airport, we all
wore masks, as did the driver and he kept the windows open.
The Hydrofoil from Corfu to Paxos was busy, but there were seats blocked off to enable groups to be separated. This was the only part of the journey where wearing a mask was not very comfortable due to the heat – but a small price to pay as Paxos quickly came into sight!
A Paxos beach to escape the crowds
We are now ensconced at Eagle’s Nest and will not feel daunted by the journey home when it comes.
On Paxos we have been made to feel welcome – a genuine friendliness coupled with a respect for safety guidelines. We wish we could have self-isolated here for the last 3 months!”
What boxes need
ticking when you look for that special Greek island holiday?
Most people look for: a modern villa with pool but one that
feels Greek; the biggest and most dramatic sea views possible; seclusion but
close to a village and beaches; privacy and tranquillity.
All of our Ionian properties have one or more of these
attributes but here is a shortlist for each island of the ones we consider to
head the wow list.
The Best Sea Views
PAXOS
Bougainvillaea(sleeps 2) – forested, west coast hillsides and the open sea.
Evangelia (sleeps up to 4) – birds eye views over Gaios port.
Villa Evangelia’s View
Jupiter (sleeps up to 6) – east to the Greek mainland, north across Mogonisi Bay, west to AntiPaxos.
Chimara(sleeps up to 8) – a big sea and the mountains of the mainland, framed by tall cypress trees.
ITHACA
Sunset Cottages (sleeps 2) – watch the sun set behind the north coast of Kefalonia.
Sunset Cottages at sunset.
Fassoulou’s Cottage (sleeps up to 4) – over Afales Bay and across the sea to the islands of Lefkas, Meganissi, Kalamos, Arkoudi and Atokos.
Hilltop House (sleeps up to 5) – the highest spot above Kioni Bay.
Tzika House (sleeps up to 8) – across the sea to Kefalonia’s north coast.
Tzika House looking towards Kefalonia
KEFALONIA
Sonia’s Apartment (sleeps 2) – watch the fishing boats and yachts arrive at and depart from Fiscardo port.
Villa Lito(sleeps up to 4) – a valley of olive groves to the sea, the pine and cypress forested foothills of Mount Aenos and the sandy coastline.
Villa Cara (sleeps up to 8) – looks out over a spectacular, natural landscape of pine and cypress to the sea and in the distance, the island of Zakynthos.
Villa Cara
LEFKAS
Rhoda (sleeps 2) – the sun sets directly opposite.
Villa Rhoda’s sunset view
Vassiliko (sleeps up to 4) – over a valley of olive groves and across Vassiliki Bay to the islands of Ithaca and Kefalonia.
Victoria (sleeps up to 10) – across Vliho Bay and up to Lefkas’ mountainous interior.
Helena (sleeps up to 10) – panoramic views over the offshore islands of Skorpios, Sparti, Skorpithi, Meganissi and across the sea to the Greek mainland.
Escape the Crowds with Total Privacy
PAXOS
Aspro Alogo (sleeps 2) – a tiny hamlet of just a few houses in the hills above Loggos.
Cressida (sleeps up to 6) – only the sound of cicadas to disturb.
Spiantzi (sleeps up to 11) – a private headland of 2 acres and private access to the beach below.
Spiantzi’s upper terrace
ITHACA
Loutsa Retreat (sleeps up to 8) – hidden from the outside world within beautiful private gardens and forested hillsides of olive and pine.
The Loutsa Retreat
KEFALONIA
Paradiso (sleeps up to 7) – a total escape with an acre of lawns overlooking a landscape of olive groves and cypress trees.
Acacia (sleeps up to 10) – large, private grounds look out across the sea to the tiny island of Dias and to Zakynthos.
Efkalyptos (sleeps up to 16) – a spacious and comfortable retreat above Spartia’s sandy beach.
Spartia Retreat (sleeps up to 18) – surrounded by 5 acres of beautiful, extensive gardens just inland from the seaside village of Spartia.
The Spartia Retreat
CORFU
Helios (sleeps up to 8) – dramatic views all the away along the east coast to Corfu Town’s fortress.
Perivoli (sleeps up to 10) – 2 acre private gardens of crimson bougainvillaea and orchards of orange, lemon, avocado, pear, apple, plum, grapefruit and a private olive grove.
The Manor House (sleeps up to 10) – a mid 18th Century Venetian residence, hidden away amongst five hillside acres of citrus orchards, olive groves and cypress trees above the east coast.
In Episode 5 of the latest series of The Durrells, the family are invited for dinner by some Italian friends.
Film location for the Durrells’ dinner at The Manor House
The beautiful Manor House was chosen as the filming location for this dinner.
View from the Manor House
You too can be part of the Durrells’ adventure and have a special holiday escape on Corfu at The Manor House.
The Manor House, a mid 18th Century Venetian residence, hides away from the outside world and is a perfect venue for the Durrells. The visitors books contain the signatures of crowned heads and their families, film stars and celebrities – testament to a special comfort and privacy.
A Manor House bedroom
The house has the peaceful feel of a bygone era but modern touches include a 72 square metre pool. The views over the channel between Corfu and the mainland of Greece, are magnificent.
The pool at The Manor House
We can offer good availability in June, July and September for parties up to 10.
Our newsletter brings you Warm Wishes and a Few Things New for the New Year.
Our office has some new family faces. Alex’s wife, Catherine, has joined our team. Catherine (Cat) has spent three years on Paxos as a Representative for Ionian Villas and Scott Williams. She has visited the other Ionian islands and will be revisiting in May.
Cat Watrous
Alex and Cat’s son, Archie, was born last September and will be on the May familiarisation trip to the islands!
Archie at the Office
For us, 2017 was the busiest and also the longest season – May and October in the Ionian are becoming more popular for warm weather escapes from more temperamental northern European climates.
May and October are possibly the best months to explore the islands on foot. Sea water and swimming pool water can, however, be bracing in May so a stay in a private apartment (with a good sea view) on the outskirts of a port or village, is fun and economical. For example:
Mermaid Cottage on Paxos has Loggos waterfront as a doorstep and in May is £570 per week.
Mermaid Cottage
Katy’s Apartment on Kefalonia has Fiscardo as a doorstep and is £500 per week in May.
We have added some new Ionian properties to our 2018 programme:
Inter-island communications are improving. For 2018 there is talk of the seaplane returning to link Corfu and Paxos and possibly the other more southern Ionian islands. We have also heard that a new ferry is being operated between Corfu, Lefkas, Kefalonia and Zakynthos. Sky Express already operate a flight linking Corfu, Preveza (for Lefkas), Kefalonia, Zakynthos and Athens. Apart from the regular inter-island hydrofoil and ferry services it is now possible to charter a private speedboat.
Ionian Seaplane
We understand that an island hopping holiday may not appeal to families wanting to limit overall travel but with this new choice of transferring from one island to another it can be seen as an exciting alternative.
And if you are a couple with more flexible time on your hands – let us know if you would like us to tailor-make an Ionian Island Hopping trip for you.
Talking about flights – there’s a new BA flight from Heathrow to Kefalonia starting mid May 2018 – Tuesday and Saturday departures.
For many of us it is difficult to know what wines to sample when on holiday in Greece. The ubiquitous and often bland “house wine” poured from taverna boxes will not show off what Greece is now producing.
On Paxos there is now an opportunity to explore the tastes of the grapes, regions and wineries of Greece from the comfort of your holiday villa. Andreas stocks some excellent wines from wineries he has selected from his annual research trips (someone’s got to do it!). He has his wine shop in Lakka but with a few days notice he can bring a selection of wines to your Paxos villa. He will give you an interesting history to the making of each wine. Best to give him a few likes & dislikes so he can tailor the selection for you. Then – when you return to Paxos for your next holiday you can arrange for Andreas to deliver your favourite wines for your arrival!
We came across an interesting blog about some of the Greek grapes
New hideaway bar in Corfu Town
The Palace and gardens of Mon Repos, surrounded by hillsides of pine forest, stand above the sea on the outskirts of Corfu Town.
Mon Repos Palace was built as a summer residence for the British Lord High Commissioner of the United States of the Ionian Islands in 1828. When the Ionian islands were ceded back to Greece in 1864, the Palace became the residence of Greece’s King George 1. The Greek royal family used it as a summer residence up until King Constantine II fled the country in 1967 and the Palace was repossessed by the Greek State.
Several royal births have taken place at the villa, including those of Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh on 10 June 1921, and Princess Alexia of Greece and Denmark on 10 July 1965.
The Palace and its gardens are now being used as an archaeological museum.
At the foot of the Palace’s forested hillside a sheltered beach, once the bathing spot for the Greek royal family, is now open to the public and has an excellent café bar and restaurant. “The Royal Baths” is close to Garitsa waterfront but its walled gardens (bordered by around 50 old-school, wooden changing huts) are a peaceful escape from the world outside – well worth a visit if you have time on Corfu.
The Royal Baths
Royal Baths’ changing huts
If you feel like a return to the Ionian this year and need some ideas – call us!
If you have time – add us as a friend on Facebook and give us a Like or follow us on Instagram for some Ionian holiday inspiration!
We wish you all the very best for 2018 – may all your dreams come true!
This Blog was written by our Ionian Villas manager on Ithaca, Sue White.
Sue lived on Kefalonia for 18 years and has now been living on Ithaca for 5 years.
Sue is a taxi driver on Ithaca – one of twelve drivers.
Sue looks after our clients and is able to give a valuable, personal insight into the history, culture and lifestyles of Ithaca.
Sue has her own website: Ithaca Travel Services
“A lot of people who visit Greece in the summer are under the impression that there is wall to wall sunshine year-round. In my taxi, apart from being asked the usual list of questions as to how I ended up being an English lady taxi driver on a small Greek island, the conversation then switches to ‘the weather’.
It’s not only tourists who have an interest in the weather. The locals here on Ithaca also have a very healthy interest on the subject, and of course they are all experts! From fishermen, shepherds and even the all-knowing γιαγιαδες (grand matriachs), I hear conflicting predictions about the weather but this last summer they all seemed to agree with each other. In August temperatures of 40 Degrees the talk was of a ‘βαρύ Χειμώνας’ (a heavy winter) – and they were right.
After a reasonably mild November and December, the New Year kicked off with freezing cold temperatures and snow, swiftly followed by days of torrential rain. For the first time in 10 years the snow settled all over the island – not just the mountain villages but also on the beaches!
January snow on an Ithaca olive tree
When the snow was washed away by days of relentless rain, the mountain streams flowed down the valleys to resemble a Lake District landscape (apart from the olive trees!). Ithaca, an island rich in pasture land and olive groves, is now super lush and green.
Snowy Stavros village
One of the effects of the snow, say the fishermen, shepherds and γιαγιαδες, is that invasive bugs have been frozen and they are now predicting a good olive harvest next October.”
Ionian Villas is coming up to its 5th birthday. With a big thank you to our guests over these 5 years, our Ionian programme has grown to feature over 200 properties.
We continue to visit all the properties each year.
Kythira. In the earlier days of Greek Islands Club, before it became part of a larger corporate image, we started a small programme on the southernmost Ionian island: Kythira.
Village of Avlemonas, Kythira
We returned to Kythira in October this year to meet up with old friends. We were delighted to see that little, if anything, had changed in the past 25 years.
We will be introducing our Kythira programme in the new year. Kythira is not for the package holidaymaker or the lover of swimming pools and will appeal to the more intrepid Grecophile.
Holiday Snaps. We are keen to add your holiday photos to our website. If you have any images, which you would like to share – please send them to us in an email.
What is happening in Greece today? The UK’s media coverage of life in Greece is often scant. Very few of us know and understand how austerity measures are affecting the Greeks. Greek Crisis is a blog dedicated to the understanding of the current Greek (but also European) economic, political and institutional crisis. It was created by Prof. Aristides Hatzis of the University of Athens, after many requests by his students seeking a source of reliable analysis on the Greek current affairs. Its aim is to post commentary and reports published mainly in the major U.S., European and Greek media and to encourage a rigorous discussion.
Walking on Paxos. Before roads were built on the islands, communication between island hamlets and villages was via a network of pathways. Many of these paths have become overgrown or the stone walls on either side have collapsed, making access difficult.
Paxos path clearing
On Paxos, a hard working group of locals are clearing these paths so that eventually all parts of the island can be reached on foot. Come to Paxos in May and explore olive groves coloured by a profusion of wild flowers. 2 people staying at Olitsi Apartment 8th to 15th May would pay £225 per person for the apartment and an Easyjet flight for around £150 each.
We hope to see you again on one of the Ionian islands – do get in touch if you would like us to search for a special island escape.
Vivienne, Alex and I wish you all a very Happy Christmas.
Fiscardo is undoubtedly one of the most colourful and prettiest ports in the Ionian.
In 1953 an earthquake destroyed all Kefalonia buildings except those in Fiscardo and a few outlying villages.
In my early Greek Islands Club days we took on a small programme of village houses for those visitors wanting to spend lazy days people and boat watching on Fiscardo waterfront.
In the early 1980’s a coffee on Fiscardo waterfront would have cost around 25 cents in today’s money.
Many of the Greek islands still hold on to a simple lifestyle and do not let the demands of blinkered tourism dictate their future. But whereas an older island generation may not want change, the younger generation will naturally be aspirational: the BMW versus the donkey.
Running a travel business often leads one to hypocrisy. I always tried to offer holiday opportunities to those wanting to escape the crowds and to get to know and be part of a simple Greek island community. In 1990 the BBC Holiday Programme asked me if we would host a film crew in Fiscardo. I said yes. Holiday bookings to Fiscardo soared the following year and Fiscardo started to take on a more chic appearance.
A coffee on Fiscardo waterfront can now cost 4 Euros.
The following photos were taken in 1990 when my mum (Buz), my wife (Vivienne) and I introduced Lorraine Chase (as the Presenter), a BBC researcher plus a cameraman and sound man to the beautiful landscapes of northern Kefalonia and Fiscardo.
You will see that there were only a very few café bar tables and chairs and wooden fishing boats outnumbered fibreglass cruisers. There were also no waterfront sun umbrellas. Today’s waterfront wall of sun umbrellas provide welcoming shade but I still prefer the openness that existed pre-invasion and also the look of traditional, rickety cafenion chairs and chipped metal tables.
But life goes on and Fiscardo will still dazzle and delight.
Selfie with Lorraine!
Lorraine & my mum!
Fiscardo waterfront 1990
Vivienne and Alex at Villa Theodora – this is now a waterfront bar.
Another year goes by and despite the unrest in different parts of the world, now is a good time to make plans for one or more escapes in 2016. Our finger on the pulse of holiday bookings to the Greek islands tells us that the larger villas in August are being taken up quickly and the month of June is proving to be very popular.
I recently read, in a Sunday broadsheet, a review of travel destinations according to a “risk of terrorism” scale of 1 – 10. Many of the destinations were around the 5. I do not know where the Ionian islands of Greece would appear in this scale but I would imagine that they must be amongst the safest destinations to visit. Sitting on a terrace overlooking a still sea with the soft scratching of olive grove cicadas and just the worry of which waterfront taverna to visit later – one can’t help but detach oneself from the outside world.
I have met many people who choose not to spend a holiday on a small island because they feel that there are too many limitations – the same views, the same food, the same daily routine – boring and “uneducating”! Every year over the last 50 years I have spent on average 2 – 3 months on Paxos. There are many hidden parts of the island that I have not yet found; all the views are constantly changing with the position of the sun, the movement of the sea and silver olive trees; the food has nearly always been fresh, inspired, colourful and delicious. I love my short breaks on islands like Paxos and after each visit I feel recharged, refreshed and educated in the simple things in life, which so often pass me by in a more frenetic lifestyle back home.
For 2016 we have added a new Ionian island: Zakynthos– direct flights (Easyjet and charter) – Villa Amphitritisleeps up to 14 people and has a TV monitor showing live footage of local seals and starfish from a nearby underwater camera. We feature 10 villas and will be adding more next year.
Villa Amphitriti, Zakynthos
There is a ferry service between Agios Nikolaos (North Zakynthos) and Pessada on Kefalonia – taking 1 hour. As Easyjet operates to both islands you could fly to Zakynthos for a holiday and then on to Kefalonia, flying back to UK from there.
Our other new properties are:
Small villas with pool:
On Paxos, Aspro Alogo – 1-bedroom hideaway cottage above Loggos.
On Kefalonia, Marika – a 2-bedroom villa above a sandy beach.
On Kefalonia, The Fiscardo Suites – luxury Suites in the centre of Fiscardo.
On Meganissi, Eftihia – 1-bedroom villa close to the sea.
3-bedroom villas with pool:
On Paxos, Alexia – hillside olive groves above Lakka Bay.
On Paxos, Erato – coastal villa just outside Gaios.
On Paxos, Kallisto – reasonably priced villa close to Magazia.
On Paxos, Aetofolia – possibly the best views over Gaios’ Venetian fortress.
On Kefalonia, Acacia – sprawling villa with huge pool close to a sandy beach.
Villa Acacia, Kefalonia
On Lefkas, Ophelia – spacious retreat with powerful views.
Villas without a pool but close to the sea:
On Paxos, The Old Residency – fantastic apartment for 6 on Gaios waterfront.
On Kefalonia, Villi’s House – just a 5 minute walk to Fiscardo waterfront.
On Ithaca, Poli Beach House – just above a beach & close to village tavernas.
Villa Videos
On our island travels we have started to take some brief videos of villa views as these are not easy to capture in a photo. It’s a learning curve for us but hopefully our filming techniques will become less shaky the more we do. Some examples can be seen on the following properties (click on “View Video”):
In 2011 Ionian Villas began with me and my wife, Vivienne. Our son, Alex, has added to his education by working on Paxos as a waiter, a boatman, a dancer, a hamper organiser, a Rep and then for the last 2 years as our Ionian Villas Paxos manager. Alex now joins us back at our Felpham (West Sussex) HQ and Dimitris Aronis becomes our new Paxos manager.
Alex & Cat’s Paxos wedding day 2015
Photo Competition
We would love to see your Ionian island photos.
Our Photo Competition offers a 1st Prize of a “10% Off” Voucher (redeemable on any of our properties in 2016) and the 2nd and 3rd Prizes are each a case of 12 bottles of Prosseco. Photos can be of any subject but in some way should give a flavour of the Ionian island. Only “Landscape” format, colour not black & white and any number of entries. We will be setting up a website page just to show a selection of these photographs so by sending us your photos you give us the authority to use each photo. We will not pass on any photo to any third party. This Blog is being sent to our Ionian Villas guests but the competition is open to anyone who has visited any of the Ionian islands.
There are now 3 different hydrofoil/ferry services between Corfu and Paxos so most morning flight departures from UK will allow Paxos clients to reach Paxos the same day. More and more of our Paxos clients are opting to take a flight departing at a “reasonable” time from UK and not at the crack of dawn and staying overnight in Corfu Town before catching an early afternoon hydrofoil to Paxos the following day.
Corfu Old Town is a fascinating mix of the old and the new. Italian and French occupations have left a legacy of beautiful architecture and there are now many excellent restaurants and bars. As an alternative to rushing over to Paxos in one day, why not choose from our selection of Corfu hotels (see below), which are all within a 5-minute taxi ride from the airport and a 10-minute taxi ride to the Paxos hydrofoil.
On most days there are fairly regular ferries between Corfu and Paxos (also hydrofoil), Kefalonia and Ithaca, Kefalonia and Zakynthos, Lefkas and Meganissi. There are also private speedboat charter services if you don’t want any waiting around at the port. Please ask us for more information.
Not Sure What to Buy Her for Christmas?
Auree Jewellery has a sparkly selection of surprisingly inexpensive ideas to show that you care. Their website also has a selection of compressed, easy-to-read travel guides including one for Paxos.
