David has spent most of his life in Travel. He was MD of Greek Islands Club (villa holidays) for 30 years but left the company when it became part of a larger tour operator. He and his wife, Vivienne, set up Ionian Villas in 2010 to get back to having a more personalised contact with their clients.
In 1962 Eliot Watrous happened upon the little island of Paxos. He returned two years later and bought a small plot of land, just outside the capital village of Gaios, and a local team of builders constructed a small, simple house above the sea – based upon a design drawn on the back of a cigarette packet.
In 1965, Eliot and his wife and four sons, spent the months of July and August in their half finished Paxos home. In those days the island’s electricity was produced (sporadically) by a diesel-fuelled generator, the ferry journey from Corfu took up to five hours, provisions were limited and it was just two years before a military dictatorship overthrew the Greek government.
Over the next few years the Watrous family spent long summers in both work (on the house) and play (deserted beaches and more donkeys than cars).
The house was known as Eliot Villa. It was sold to one of Greece’s most famous folk singers, who converted and modernised the property to make it one of the most comfortable retreats on the stretch of coastline just outside Gaios.
Eliot Villa can now be booked through Ionian Villas. It has 4 bedrooms, a pool, privacy and is just 100 metres from a small beach.
You might feel hesitant about an Ionian holiday in October. Will the weather be ok? Will sufficient ferries be operating? Will tavernas and shops be open?
A few of us from the office travel to the Ionian in October in order to see property owners, take new photos, find out what changes are planned for the following year and then to check the local cuisine, sample new wines and gauge sea temperatures!
This year we spent the second week of October on Paxos.
A few wispy clouds on the last day but otherwise clear blue skies and temperatures in the late 20’s. We stayed on the west coast – hypnotically vibrant sunsets.
West coast sunset
With the good weather, nearly all of Paxos’ tavernas and café bars planned to stay open until the end of October. Supermarkets and shops were well stocked. Fruit aplenty: fresh canary melons, peaches, nectarines, grapes, pineapples, kiwi fruits, bananas – to name a few.
Sea temperature seemed warmer than August and we tested it every day – such is our dedication to getting our facts right!
Marmari beach
Morning temperatures of early 20’s make for perfect walking conditions. The sides of roads and donkey paths bordered by swathes of wild cyclamen and crocus. Branches of olive trees starting to droop with the weight of ripening olives. Black olive nets ready to catch the winter crop.
Roadside cyclamen
Paxos Cats
Village cats basking in the afternoon sun. Local islanders enjoying the peace and quiet of a waterfront cafenion. Hire boats being taken out of the water to leave village waterfronts with colourful wooden fishing boats. Gaios fish market selling an abundance of freshly caught fish. The opportunity to commandeer deserted beaches. The beautiful blues of the sea within sheltered coves below hillsides of olive and cypress trees.
And then, all too soon, the wake-up call to leave and return to colder, greyer shores.
Departing Paxos at sunrise
Corfu airport comparatively busy but a recently opened airside lounge offers a peaceful escape with comfy seating, complimentary snacks and drinks and even a porter to escort you to the lounge via a fast track security check. Ask us for details!
New Corfu Airport Lounge
Try an October break to the Ionian – the perfect tonic to prepare for winter back home.
(A glimpse into the traditional festivities of a Greek Orthodox Easter)
Over 90% of Greeks identify with the Greek Orthodox Christian faith. Their church has played a strong part in their history and religious traditions are important to them. One of the most celebrated events of the calendar is the Orthodox Easter and this year their Easter falls on 16th April.
Festivities begin about a month before Lent with Carnival Season (“Apokries”): celebrations of street parties, parades and masquarades – originally pagan rituals worshipping Dionysos, the God of wine, agriculture, fertility, dance and fun.
Easter Fireworks above the ‘Old Fortress of Corfu’
Clean Monday (“Cathara Deftera”) marks the end of Apokries and families mark the start of Lent, when the fasting begins, with picnics of seafood, taramasalata, halva (a corn starch sweet) and unleavened bread (“Lagana”), traditionally accompanied by kite flying.
Those observing the tradition of Lent will abstain from consuming meat, dairy products, alcohol and sugar.
On the eve of Easter Sunday village communities gather with lit candles and wait for the priest to declare that “Christ is Risen”. Church bells and fireworks then celebrate the hour and then “Magiritsa”, a soup made from lamb offal, is served.
Easter Sunday is the day of the greatest feast of all. Lambs are roasted on outdoor spits and the groaning Easter table welcomes family and friends for a day of indulgence.
On the table will be bowls or baskets of bright red eggs. The eggs are dyed red on Holy Thursday, a custom which goes back to the early Christians and symbolises the sacrificial blood of Christ.
A young Alex on Paxos at EasterAlex, Vivienne & family friends enjoying Easter in the early 90’s
The cracking of the red eggs has its own symbolism. The hard shell of the egg symbolizes the sealed tomb of Christ while the cracking means that the tomb has been broken and that Christ has been resurrected from the dead.
Egg cracking (“Tsougrisma”) is a bit like a game of conkers! Each player holds a red egg and one taps the end of their egg against the end of the other player’s egg. The goal is to crack the opponent’s egg without cracking yours. When one end is cracked, the winner uses the same end of their egg to try to crack the other undamaged end of the opponent’s egg. The player who successfully cracks the eggs of the other players is declared the winner and, it is said, will have good luck during the year.
Traditionally, when tapping the egg, the first player would say to his opponent “Christos anesti” (“Christ has risen!”) to which the second person responds “Alithos anesti!” (“He Truly Has”).
Filippos & Alexandros with their painted eggs
Watch out for the occasional cheat, who moves a thumb nail unobtrusively and quickly over their egg tip just as their opponent delivers a tap!
An understanding of simple physics helps: the pointiest egg should perform better.
Hold your egg in a grip as close to the tapping end as possible, so that it can only be hit at the curviest/pointiest spot on the top while the sides are supported.
Have you thought about switching your July and August Summer holiday for a Spring holiday? We like to visit the Ionian every May with our family and here’s why we think it is the perfect time to visit….
In May the islands and mainland Ionian coast are usually less crowded, flights can be cheaper, and villas tend to have good availability.
The islands begin to come to life with tavernas and shops opening after Greek Easter and there is a nice energy in the air for the new season ahead.
Day temperatures sit between 20 – 25 degrees, with evenings slightly cooler and night-time around 14 degrees; perfect for families like ours with young children.
The Ionian is usually a blaze with spring colours and the cooler temperatures can allow for a more active day of walking, running, yoga and cycling.
Sea temperatures are just about warm enough to take a dip and you often find you have the beach all to yourselves!!
If this appeals to you, we still have some fantastic properties available this May half term…
If you are interested in booking any of the villas above or would like to know about other available properties, please contact Alex and Samantha for prices and special offers enquiries@ionian-villas.co.uk
My name is Victoria Turner and I have a home and family on Paxos. As such I care deeply about the people and the environment of this island, and their relationship with each other. I have seen that, despite the spectacular environmental beauty and warmth of the communities here, the island faces many challenges. From improving water, waste and road infrastructure that meets the ever-increasing demands of tourists, to balancing economic development with land/marine conservation, these numerous pressures are shared across much of the Ionian region.
I feel extremely privileged, as the Executive Director of the Ionian Environment Foundation, to be able to work with some incredible NGOs, passionate individuals and determined action groups towards addressing these challenges and activating lasting change in the region.
Local beach clean Paxos
Using the tried and tested, non-bureaucratic approach of the Conservation Collective, the IEF seeks to raise funds from people and businesses who love the Ionian Region and care about its protection and restoration. We distribute those funds predominantly to local communities and environmental initiatives to empower them to promote and support conservation actions that achieve comprehensive results in the fields of nature recovery, environmental protection, sustainable development and the circular economy. My job is to find the people who love and cherish the Ionian Islands and ask them to either support our work with funds – or build an impactful local project that we can support!
The work is not always easy, but I am an optimist who knows that, even with small steps, positive change can happen. One such theory of change is as follows:
If the IEF can support and promote the immediate actions of the best hands-on local projects, then the culture of conservation will evolve. This is because, over time, these activities will serve to inform people’s mindsets and change their attitudes towards the fragile environment around them. For example, we supported an educational project that promoted conservation through awareness raising of the 75 species of Corfu Butterfly. 8000 posters of the butterflies were distributed to the islands’ 54 primary schools and into the hands of every pupil. 897 teachers also received teaching resources to promote respect and intrigue for Corfu’s butterflies. Via the symbolic flagship example of the butterfly, the wonders of biodiversity and the importance of conservation were widely communicated.
Corfu Butterfly Conservation Project
Many of the projects we support are excellent showcasing examples for how people can be actively engaged with protecting the local environment and tackle the issues head on. For example, any observant visitor to the islands could not fail to notice that waste management is a pressing issue that needs addressing. We are working with small and large action groups to fuel a change both in how waste is managed effectively, as well as how waste can be reduced at source. The Social Enterprise group SinPraxi works together with over 25 local businesses to see recyclables separated and delivered to a sorting unit where the items are sent back into the circular economy via effective recycling plants on the mainland. In this way SinPraxi have successfully diverted over 600 tonnes of materials away from Corfu’s overflowing landfill where it would inevitably end up severely polluting the surrounding ecosystem. By supporting and celebrating their successful operation, we hope that their showcasing actions will fuel awareness and inspire similar actions that directly tackle the waste crisis.
Clearing abandoned fish farm waste- IthacaWaste management Recycling Unit- Corfu
I am thrilled to have gained the support of Ionian Villas. As a significant sector of Greece’s tourist industry, villas, with their owners, guests, managers, gardeners and chefs, can all play an influential role in making waves for change though their efforts to tread more lightly on the environment. Together we are working towards making such changes through the IEF Villa Alliance.
For more information on our work and projects for 2023, please see our latest NEWSLETTERand visit our website. To donate directly, please do so HERE. Your support would be greatly appreciated – where even small amounts will help fuel a positive and impactful change for the Ionian Islands.
The Ionian Islands have the most wonderful, magnetic energy… warm air, blue skies, turquoise waters, hillsides full of olive and cypress trees, fresh seasonal locally grown food and the sun to nourish the soul. A perfect escape for wellness and yoga practice.
If you are a yoga/pilates teacher looking to host a retreat we believe we have some of the best properties in the Ionian. Our partnerships with the retreat owners will allow you to create the most extraordinary experience for your guests.
How it works…. we can help you decide which island is best suited to you and give you an idea of the cost. We have a selection of properties specifically designed for retreats with a variety of group sizes. We will then put you in touch with the owner of the venue or our island manager so that they can help you plan everything.
There are some incredible yoga and pilates teachers who live on the Ionian islands. If you have booked a property with us and wish to practice whilst on holiday, we can put you in touch with a teacher for a private 1-1 class or small group classes.
Take a look at some of our favourite retreat properties….
Kefalonia
Villa Olivestone is a private, secluded and peaceful hideaway for those wanting a special escape from a busy world outside. The property lies in a 32-acre private estate above the sandy beaches of the south coast, in the foothills of Mount Aenos. The property sleeps up to 12 guests in comfortable accommodation; there are many areas for social gatherings or quiet spots for total relaxation.
The villa comes with a cook, Yolanda who will prepare wonderful fresh dishes for your retreat guests. Other activities such as massage therapies and skippered boat trips can be arranged as part a tailor-made programme.
Paxos is lucky enough to have (in our opinion) one of the best Yoga teachers in Greece. German born Sandra has lived on the island for many years, she speaks a variety of languages including, German, English and Greek. She teaches a mix of Ashtanga, Hatha and Vinyasa flow, inspired by her practice in Berlin and India. Many of the Watrous family have attended her classes and we think she really is a special teacher!
Sandra also offers a range of other activities including dance, meditation, Pilates, body toning, hit, aqua fit and SUP yoga. Sandra does open classes and 1-1 private sessions either at your villa or in her own yoga studio.
Our suggestion would be to rent the fabulous Velianitatika Retreat, as this happens to be next door to Sandra’s studio, in the sleepy village of Velianitatika. Perfect for a group of yoga friends who want something more personalised and bespoke.
Vassiliki: Five spectacular villa; Icarus, Angeliki, Ismini, Grigoria and Villa Of Light sit perched high above the sea on the south coast looking down to the port of Vassiliki. The views across Vassiliki Bay and to the islands of Ithaca and Kefalonia are breathtaking. There are individual swimming pools for each villa, a large yoga studio and a retreat chef. The retreat can accommodate up to 25 guests (including teachers). The villas can be booked individually or all together depending on retreat size. Massage, Mediterranean cooking lessons, sporting activities, walks/hikes and day trips can also be arranged.
Geni: Surrounded by olive and pine trees and wild myrtle bushes, sit three beautifully designed villas; Antonella, Rosetta and Stefania. They have a special hilltop position with dramatic views from the pool terraces across Vlicho Bay. A variety of balconies and terraces cater for both sun and shade and each property has a private infinity pool. Above the villas amongst the olive groves overlooking Dessimi and Vlicho bay is a closed yoga studio surrounded by glass windows. Yoga can also be practiced in the open studio which overlooks the infinity pool and Vlicho bay, It is 70 sqm and crafted to host a group of 24 people.
Each villa sleeps 8 guests, so a retreat capacity of up to 24 (including teachers), the villas can be booked individually or all together. Adonis, a fellow yogi is the retreat chef, he cooks traditional Greek dishes or can cater to a vegan/health menu. Tavernas and Dessimi Beach are also within walking distance.
Ithaca
For a smaller group The Loutsa Retreat is perfect. The villa sleeps up to 8 guests and has total privacy and tranquility. Large terraces open out to beautiful gardens where it is possible to have sun or shade throughout the day. A curving swimming pool sweeps through a small olive grove, bordered by hedges of lavender.
A cook can be arranged for your retreat or if you would prefer to provide your guests with bed and breakfast only, the owner offers a complimentary organic breakfast delivered to your door each morning. The retreat is a 3-minute walk to Loutsa Beach and a 10-minute walk to a waterfront taverna and the port of Vathy.
The five Sunset Cottages are perched up high on Ithaca’s west coast, two kilometres south of Stavros village and just a five minute drive to Polis Bay beach. Each cottage sleeps 2 with a sea-facing terrace and a small garden of citrus and peach trees. The larger terraces are perfect to practice yoga and there is a swimming pool for all to enjoy. The cottages would be perfect for a smaller budget and retreat.
Kalokeri is a beautifully elegant villa set within 4.5 acres of private land. It has dramatic views across the sea to Kefalonia and the Greek mainland. The property sleeps 12 and has an infinity pool, a stone Pool House, beautiful gardens and terraces for relaxing, activities including table tennis and now a fantastic new yoga deck! The deck looks out to sea with a spellbinding panorama. Sunrise meditation or early morning yoga is a truly magical experience at Kalokeri. Further activities including massage therapies and a retreat cook can be arranged.
Corfu
Morning yoga on the sand or amongst the olive trees is on offer at On the beach Alpha, Beta & Gamma. These three villas are less then 80 metres from the beach of Milou Bay. Villa Alpha sleeps 10, Beta and Gamma each sleep 12. All 3 villas have modern comforts inside and outside – the owners describe the overall design and décor as “boho-luxury”. Elements of the natural surroundings have been incorporated to create the feel of a countrified retreat by the sea.
On the Beach, AlphaOn the Beach, Alpha
If you are interested in booking any of the properties above for a future retreat and would like to know more – call or email us.
We hope that you have enjoyed a relaxed and “forget all the doom & gloom” Christmas and that you are looking forward to a positive new year. Difficult when there is so much uncertainty and grief in the world but important to face 2023 with a determined spirit. In the hope that thoughts of holidays in the sun can bring some colour to your mid-winter, we’d like to tell you about what is new for Ionian Villas in 2023. Within the next few weeks we will be announcing our new villa programme in Epirus, on the Ionian coastline of the Greek mainland.
Sivota and Paleros are small ports on the mainland. Sivota is opposite the south-eastern tip of Corfu and Paleros is opposite the north-east coast of Lefkas. Both seaside villages are excellent locations for those who look for more exploration and choice of activities than offered on the islands. Wild and untouched inland and a coastline of deserted beaches, only reachable by boat.
Paleros is a 30 minute drive from Lefkas and Sivota is a 1-hour drive from Lefkas. Good choices for a 2-centre holiday combining Lefkas with the mainland.
On a hillside above Sivota, Villa Infinity looks out across the sea to Paxos and Corfu.
Our Touch of Luxury programme now includes some stunning villas on Corfu. Villa Callisto sleeps up to 12 and is just a few steps away from Agia Triada beach, near Paliokastritsa.
A new Greek TV series, called “Maestro in Blue”, will appear on Netflix in the new year (dates to be confirmed). The series was filmed on Paxos in 2022 and tells the story of a music festival being organised during the Covid-19 pandemic. “In the nine episodes, director Christoforos Papakaliatis narrates a story of passion and conflict.”
Our Paxos manager, Dimitris, and his parents (who had walk-on roles) and actress Kleilia Andriolatou. Dimitris, his dogs and actor Christoforos Papakaliatis
Filming on Paxos’ west coast
In the Spring 2023 we will be introducing our new website – bigger pictures and more user-friendly. For 2023 we have added new villas on each island. Here is a selection according to villa size:
Chiara on Lefkas is a spacious retreat for up to 20 people with a special west coast location for sunsets and sandy beaches.
Contessa Sara on Corfu sleeps up to 12 and is a perfect spot for those wanting to be within close distance of beaches, watersports, tavernas and shops.
Yannisatika House on Paxos, sleeping up to 10, is a well kept secret – one of the most beautiful properties on the island
Fortouna on Corfu, sleeps up to 8 and is just 35 steps away from the sea.
Salto on Kefalonia is a sumptuous villa just above the sea for up to 6 people.
Lucie, sleeping up to 4, is a 10 minute walk through olive groves to Lakka port on Paxos.
Apaggio on Ithaca is a one-bedroom cottage with panoramic views over Vathy Bay and across the sea to Atokos island and the Greek mainland.
New to our West Sussex team is Natalie Verrall. Natalie wears an Administration and Social Media Manager cap.
Finally, we have joined forces with the Ionian Environment Foundation in a venture to support various projects to protect the Ionian’s environment. Watch this space!
Legend has it that Poseidon, lord of the seas, spotted the Sea Goddess Amphitrie dancing on the island of Naxos. He immediately fell in love – of course he did – and after chasing her to the ends of the world he broke off a little piece of paradise, dragging a fragment of Corfu south, just for them. Paxos became their refuge…and Antipaxos…one can only imagine!
The small, mostly uninhabited island of Antipaxos lies roughly three kilometres south of Paxos. The interior of the island remains traditional and undeveloped but comes with a rich biodiversity. Artichokes and broad beans grow wild and free, spreading unchecked in the sun. Grapevines thrive here with the local wine highly regarded and the island is rich in flora and fauna. But this just scratches the surface. In previous summers I had heard stories of all manner of treasures hidden in its castaway rock pools and I was aching for an opportunity to check.
My approach to food on Paxos has always been driven by the seasonality of local ingredients. There is something so organic about walking through the square in Gaios to choose ‘fresh from the sea’ fish. There is no form or order. No polystyrene boxes, no filleted fillets sitting on ice and faux vegetation. Fish fall from the bag: a large cuttlefish, a small lobster, a couple of sea bream perhaps and anchovies. To know you are using freshly picked or caught food is at the centre of what we try and do on Paxos. It is not always possible but the provenance of ingredients has always been important. The story behind when, where and by what means something was picked or caught adds a level of narrative to the preparation and presentation of our food, something we are always keen to pass on to our guests.
I will take advantage of any and every opportunity I get to better understand the ecosystem in which we work and the seasonality of the ingredients we use. Whether it’s free diving for fish on the west coast (more of an observatory capacity if truth be told) or beating down trails in late autumn in search of blackberries – I enjoy making use of what exists here on Paxos. So when another opportunity presented itself in early May to head across to Antipaxos I could hardly resist.
I had heard stories of caper berries, samphire and persillin, wild leeks and blackberries, and it was my intention to investigate such claims. We boarded Niko’s new boat – a purchase from the previous autumn that he was very proud of – in the late morning. The day was a typical mid spring occasion, the sun beating down on, let’s say refreshing Ionian waters, a breeze in the air and distant clouds looking to ruin the party.
The group was a mixed crowd of good friends but international in complexion. Two French brothers who have grown into close friends over the years were joined by Federica and Makis both from the island as well as two friends from England, over to enjoy the early season. We left the harbour behind at speed, skimming the flat calm waters of Gaios and heading south. We crossed the channel with beers open and passed by Vrika beach, Niko blasting his horn to a small gathering on the otherwise empty beach.
The beaches of Vrika and Votoumi are unparalleled in the region. Expansive white sand stretching across wide bays, extending into crystal clear shallow water. The summer months see a swell of holiday makers, cruise boats come and go and yachts anchor precariously in the fine sand. But for now the beach was empty and we were headed elsewhere. We motored past the port and tied up to a rock outcrop, offloading beers and personnel. Keeping a close eye for snakes we cut a rough track through the shrub making a beeline for Makis’ place and the old lighthouse. Along the way we found collections of gently perfumed salt collecting in dried up rock pools, somehow palliative and sweet.
We returned to the boat a little while later in good spirits. The clouds were growing in confidence as we headed for the rock island of Dascalia. Exiting the boat we struggled to keep our footing on the slippery shoreline, Makis the only one able to somehow make it ashore gracefully. He immediately set to work, a small pair of pliers strapped to his ankle, dislocating limpets and small sea snails from the coastal rocks. I left him to it, making the short swim in the cool water to the main island and scrambled barefoot up its rockface to the grassy top. Seagulls alerted by my presence swooped like Stuka dive bombers to protect their nest. Among the rough roots, caper leaves reached sunward growing amongst flowering rock samphire. Sea persillin, acidic and salty little leaves were everywhere – a foraging dream.
With my pockets full of sea herbs I eventually conceded to the increasingly persistent demands of the gulls and retreated to the cliff face – diving into deep blue water to make my escape. By the time I had returned Makis had filled a bucket with the sea molluscs, picking the limpets from the shells and eating them raw. ‘Let’s go’!
As we made it back to our island home a plan had formed and I was keen to get back to my little kitchen. While the limpets are delicious raw, tasting like the sea from where they came, I wanted to cook them. Olive oil hit the pan first, followed by garlic, white wine, and samphire. The little shells were then cleaned and added to the mix. With the lid on they steamed slowly, releasing their liquor and after ten minutes the limpets had released from their homes falling into the broth. The snails were more difficult and I set about popping out the sweet flesh with a small fork. As the broth reduced I added a pinch of Greek saffron bringing a delicate note of spice to proceedings. The dish was finished with some of the salty caper and sea herbs. Delicious!
This was by no means a quick meal but it was a solid return on our investment that day. We had found our dinner, we had climbed, dived and slipped our way to a meal that was entirely free and provided by the land and sea. We left behind only footprints and took only what was there in abundance. Practically speaking it will be hard to replicate this dish over the coming months, time constraints will limit such free time to the margins of our season but I will no doubt be back on Antipaxos soon … and I might just take a bucket!
Hello, let me introduce myself, Sue, Ionian Villa’s contact on the beautifully un-spoilt island of Ithaca and wedding planner of stylish bespoke celebrations. I moved to Ithaca approximately ten years ago after living on Kefalonia for many years and after meeting my husband!
Ithaca was no stranger to me as often I would hop on the ferry from Kefalonia to visit this special island. After planning our own wedding, I decided to combine and channel my local knowledge, organizational skills, and language ability, establishing Ithaki Weddings, to assist other couples realise their dreams of hosting their weddings in such a unique location.
Waterside churches, private villas, olive groves and secluded beaches are just some of the locations and venues my brides have chosen.Taking inspiration from the islands’ natural beauty every wedding I plan and design is bespoke to each couple ensuring that their dream day is exactly as they envisioned.
Villa venues are always popular offering complete privacy for the perfect intimate wedding or elopement.
A beach wedding is the dream location for many, with so many secluded and beautiful beaches around Ithaca’s rugged coastline it’s a tough choice to make, but a beach accessible only by boat is always the first choice for many couples.
Ithaca is a truly magical island which once visited is very hard to forget, a local legend implies ‘that if you cup your hand under the Kalamos spring and drink its’ ice-cold water you will return again to Ithaca’.
If like me you’ve fallen in love with Ithaca and dream of hosting your own destination wedding on the island, contact me and together we will make it happen.
My name is Andrew and I am a self taught private chef, working and living on the small Greek island of Paxos. I first met Alex and Cat from the Ionian Villas team when I moved to Paxos in 2015. At the time they were residing full time on Paxos and now having left the island they remain good friends. This is the first of a number of blogs working in collaboration with Ionian Villas to illustrate the finer details of life on Paxos. The stories, the food and the people that make this island life so special!
Some time in 2015 after years of early morning commutes, uninspiring career choices and very little free time, I made the decision to swap the tube lines of London for the donkey tracks of Paxos on a permanent basis!
What followed in those first few months on Paxos was a passion to better understand the processes and traditions of the island and specifically, its food. Almost straight away I found myself cooking simple dishes; grilling just caught sardines over charcoal in my small yard, slowly roasting lamb and herbs in the cottage oven and assembling fresh salads with peppery local olives and hunks of sharp creamy feta. I absorbed information wherever and whenever I could, learning about the subtleties of foraging for horta, the many ways one could make taramasalata and the simple pleasures of allowing ingredients to speak for themselves.
Andrew & Fotini
It was through meeting my partner Fotini in 2017 that I began to understand from her family the importance of food and how central it is to life in Greece. Over time her grandparents shared their knowledge around the production and of food on the island and I began to better appreciate the importance of seasonality and the significance of local ingredients. I helped the family collect olives, make wine, and spent evenings picking whitebait from their fishing nets and in return they shared their home and their dinner table with me. In the spring of 2018 Fotini and I decided to set up a small catering business offering simple food cooked on site at people’s villas. Fotini’s vigour for all things Paxos and her unbridled passion for hospitality inevitably proved popular. She would chat to guests over dinner, sharing stories of Paxos winters and our future plans and in the process made good friends.
The food itself drew inspiration from the island, offering modern alternatives to the familiarity of traditional taverna dining while still harnessing local ingredients at its core. Dishes like our black garlic lamb with broad beans and artichokes picked from Fotini’s land on neighbouring Antipaxos and the lemon tart and rosemary ice cream, – in which everything but the sugar and flour comes straight from our garden – are just two examples of our approach.
Today we continue with the business, each season drawing on our surroundings and experiences and connecting with new and returning guests alike. Now in the winter we have an opportunity to prepare and plan, but also in writing this, to share some of our favourite recipes and the stories that have inspired them. We hope you enjoy them!
For more information or to book for a private dining experience in your villa, contact Andrew & Fotini via the website Supper on Paxos or follow on Instagram @andrewhindley
