In 1962 Eliot Watrous happened upon the little island of Paxos. He returned two years later and bought a small plot of land, just outside the capital village of Gaios, and a local team of builders constructed a small, simple house above the sea – based upon a design drawn on the back of a cigarette packet.
In 1965, Eliot and his wife and four sons, spent the months of July and August in their half finished Paxos home. In those days the island’s electricity was produced (sporadically) by a diesel-fuelled generator, the ferry journey from Corfu took up to five hours, provisions were limited and it was just two years before a military dictatorship overthrew the Greek government.
Over the next few years the Watrous family spent long summers in both work (on the house) and play (deserted beaches and more donkeys than cars).
The house was known as Eliot Villa. It was sold to one of Greece’s most famous folk singers, who converted and modernised the property to make it one of the most comfortable retreats on the stretch of coastline just outside Gaios.
Eliot Villa can now be booked through Ionian Villas. It has 4 bedrooms, a pool, privacy and is just 100 metres from a small beach.
You might feel hesitant about an Ionian holiday in October. Will the weather be ok? Will sufficient ferries be operating? Will tavernas and shops be open?
A few of us from the office travel to the Ionian in October in order to see property owners, take new photos, find out what changes are planned for the following year and then to check the local cuisine, sample new wines and gauge sea temperatures!
This year we spent the second week of October on Paxos.
A few wispy clouds on the last day but otherwise clear blue skies and temperatures in the late 20’s. We stayed on the west coast – hypnotically vibrant sunsets.
West coast sunset
With the good weather, nearly all of Paxos’ tavernas and café bars planned to stay open until the end of October. Supermarkets and shops were well stocked. Fruit aplenty: fresh canary melons, peaches, nectarines, grapes, pineapples, kiwi fruits, bananas – to name a few.
Sea temperature seemed warmer than August and we tested it every day – such is our dedication to getting our facts right!
Marmari beach
Morning temperatures of early 20’s make for perfect walking conditions. The sides of roads and donkey paths bordered by swathes of wild cyclamen and crocus. Branches of olive trees starting to droop with the weight of ripening olives. Black olive nets ready to catch the winter crop.
Roadside cyclamen
Paxos Cats
Village cats basking in the afternoon sun. Local islanders enjoying the peace and quiet of a waterfront cafenion. Hire boats being taken out of the water to leave village waterfronts with colourful wooden fishing boats. Gaios fish market selling an abundance of freshly caught fish. The opportunity to commandeer deserted beaches. The beautiful blues of the sea within sheltered coves below hillsides of olive and cypress trees.
And then, all too soon, the wake-up call to leave and return to colder, greyer shores.
Departing Paxos at sunrise
Corfu airport comparatively busy but a recently opened airside lounge offers a peaceful escape with comfy seating, complimentary snacks and drinks and even a porter to escort you to the lounge via a fast track security check. Ask us for details!
New Corfu Airport Lounge
Try an October break to the Ionian – the perfect tonic to prepare for winter back home.
(A glimpse into the traditional festivities of a Greek Orthodox Easter)
Over 90% of Greeks identify with the Greek Orthodox Christian faith. Their church has played a strong part in their history and religious traditions are important to them. One of the most celebrated events of the calendar is the Orthodox Easter and this year their Easter falls on 16th April.
Festivities begin about a month before Lent with Carnival Season (“Apokries”): celebrations of street parties, parades and masquarades – originally pagan rituals worshipping Dionysos, the God of wine, agriculture, fertility, dance and fun.
Easter Fireworks above the ‘Old Fortress of Corfu’
Clean Monday (“Cathara Deftera”) marks the end of Apokries and families mark the start of Lent, when the fasting begins, with picnics of seafood, taramasalata, halva (a corn starch sweet) and unleavened bread (“Lagana”), traditionally accompanied by kite flying.
Those observing the tradition of Lent will abstain from consuming meat, dairy products, alcohol and sugar.
On the eve of Easter Sunday village communities gather with lit candles and wait for the priest to declare that “Christ is Risen”. Church bells and fireworks then celebrate the hour and then “Magiritsa”, a soup made from lamb offal, is served.
Easter Sunday is the day of the greatest feast of all. Lambs are roasted on outdoor spits and the groaning Easter table welcomes family and friends for a day of indulgence.
On the table will be bowls or baskets of bright red eggs. The eggs are dyed red on Holy Thursday, a custom which goes back to the early Christians and symbolises the sacrificial blood of Christ.
A young Alex on Paxos at EasterAlex, Vivienne & family friends enjoying Easter in the early 90’s
The cracking of the red eggs has its own symbolism. The hard shell of the egg symbolizes the sealed tomb of Christ while the cracking means that the tomb has been broken and that Christ has been resurrected from the dead.
Egg cracking (“Tsougrisma”) is a bit like a game of conkers! Each player holds a red egg and one taps the end of their egg against the end of the other player’s egg. The goal is to crack the opponent’s egg without cracking yours. When one end is cracked, the winner uses the same end of their egg to try to crack the other undamaged end of the opponent’s egg. The player who successfully cracks the eggs of the other players is declared the winner and, it is said, will have good luck during the year.
Traditionally, when tapping the egg, the first player would say to his opponent “Christos anesti” (“Christ has risen!”) to which the second person responds “Alithos anesti!” (“He Truly Has”).
Filippos & Alexandros with their painted eggs
Watch out for the occasional cheat, who moves a thumb nail unobtrusively and quickly over their egg tip just as their opponent delivers a tap!
An understanding of simple physics helps: the pointiest egg should perform better.
Hold your egg in a grip as close to the tapping end as possible, so that it can only be hit at the curviest/pointiest spot on the top while the sides are supported.
Have you thought about switching your July and August Summer holiday for a Spring holiday? We like to visit the Ionian every May with our family and here’s why we think it is the perfect time to visit….
In May the islands and mainland Ionian coast are usually less crowded, flights can be cheaper, and villas tend to have good availability.
The islands begin to come to life with tavernas and shops opening after Greek Easter and there is a nice energy in the air for the new season ahead.
Day temperatures sit between 20 – 25 degrees, with evenings slightly cooler and night-time around 14 degrees; perfect for families like ours with young children.
The Ionian is usually a blaze with spring colours and the cooler temperatures can allow for a more active day of walking, running, yoga and cycling.
Sea temperatures are just about warm enough to take a dip and you often find you have the beach all to yourselves!!
If this appeals to you, we still have some fantastic properties available this May half term…
If you are interested in booking any of the villas above or would like to know about other available properties, please contact Alex and Samantha for prices and special offers enquiries@ionian-villas.co.uk
We hope that you have enjoyed a relaxed and “forget all the doom & gloom” Christmas and that you are looking forward to a positive new year. Difficult when there is so much uncertainty and grief in the world but important to face 2023 with a determined spirit. In the hope that thoughts of holidays in the sun can bring some colour to your mid-winter, we’d like to tell you about what is new for Ionian Villas in 2023. Within the next few weeks we will be announcing our new villa programme in Epirus, on the Ionian coastline of the Greek mainland.
Sivota and Paleros are small ports on the mainland. Sivota is opposite the south-eastern tip of Corfu and Paleros is opposite the north-east coast of Lefkas. Both seaside villages are excellent locations for those who look for more exploration and choice of activities than offered on the islands. Wild and untouched inland and a coastline of deserted beaches, only reachable by boat.
Paleros is a 30 minute drive from Lefkas and Sivota is a 1-hour drive from Lefkas. Good choices for a 2-centre holiday combining Lefkas with the mainland.
On a hillside above Sivota, Villa Infinity looks out across the sea to Paxos and Corfu.
Our Touch of Luxury programme now includes some stunning villas on Corfu. Villa Callisto sleeps up to 12 and is just a few steps away from Agia Triada beach, near Paliokastritsa.
A new Greek TV series, called “Maestro in Blue”, will appear on Netflix in the new year (dates to be confirmed). The series was filmed on Paxos in 2022 and tells the story of a music festival being organised during the Covid-19 pandemic. “In the nine episodes, director Christoforos Papakaliatis narrates a story of passion and conflict.”
Our Paxos manager, Dimitris, and his parents (who had walk-on roles) and actress Kleilia Andriolatou. Dimitris, his dogs and actor Christoforos Papakaliatis
Filming on Paxos’ west coast
In the Spring 2023 we will be introducing our new website – bigger pictures and more user-friendly. For 2023 we have added new villas on each island. Here is a selection according to villa size:
Chiara on Lefkas is a spacious retreat for up to 20 people with a special west coast location for sunsets and sandy beaches.
Contessa Sara on Corfu sleeps up to 12 and is a perfect spot for those wanting to be within close distance of beaches, watersports, tavernas and shops.
Yannisatika House on Paxos, sleeping up to 10, is a well kept secret – one of the most beautiful properties on the island
Fortouna on Corfu, sleeps up to 8 and is just 35 steps away from the sea.
Salto on Kefalonia is a sumptuous villa just above the sea for up to 6 people.
Lucie, sleeping up to 4, is a 10 minute walk through olive groves to Lakka port on Paxos.
Apaggio on Ithaca is a one-bedroom cottage with panoramic views over Vathy Bay and across the sea to Atokos island and the Greek mainland.
New to our West Sussex team is Natalie Verrall. Natalie wears an Administration and Social Media Manager cap.
Finally, we have joined forces with the Ionian Environment Foundation in a venture to support various projects to protect the Ionian’s environment. Watch this space!
Legend has it that Poseidon, lord of the seas, spotted the Sea Goddess Amphitrie dancing on the island of Naxos. He immediately fell in love – of course he did – and after chasing her to the ends of the world he broke off a little piece of paradise, dragging a fragment of Corfu south, just for them. Paxos became their refuge…and Antipaxos…one can only imagine!
The small, mostly uninhabited island of Antipaxos lies roughly three kilometres south of Paxos. The interior of the island remains traditional and undeveloped but comes with a rich biodiversity. Artichokes and broad beans grow wild and free, spreading unchecked in the sun. Grapevines thrive here with the local wine highly regarded and the island is rich in flora and fauna. But this just scratches the surface. In previous summers I had heard stories of all manner of treasures hidden in its castaway rock pools and I was aching for an opportunity to check.
My approach to food on Paxos has always been driven by the seasonality of local ingredients. There is something so organic about walking through the square in Gaios to choose ‘fresh from the sea’ fish. There is no form or order. No polystyrene boxes, no filleted fillets sitting on ice and faux vegetation. Fish fall from the bag: a large cuttlefish, a small lobster, a couple of sea bream perhaps and anchovies. To know you are using freshly picked or caught food is at the centre of what we try and do on Paxos. It is not always possible but the provenance of ingredients has always been important. The story behind when, where and by what means something was picked or caught adds a level of narrative to the preparation and presentation of our food, something we are always keen to pass on to our guests.
I will take advantage of any and every opportunity I get to better understand the ecosystem in which we work and the seasonality of the ingredients we use. Whether it’s free diving for fish on the west coast (more of an observatory capacity if truth be told) or beating down trails in late autumn in search of blackberries – I enjoy making use of what exists here on Paxos. So when another opportunity presented itself in early May to head across to Antipaxos I could hardly resist.
I had heard stories of caper berries, samphire and persillin, wild leeks and blackberries, and it was my intention to investigate such claims. We boarded Niko’s new boat – a purchase from the previous autumn that he was very proud of – in the late morning. The day was a typical mid spring occasion, the sun beating down on, let’s say refreshing Ionian waters, a breeze in the air and distant clouds looking to ruin the party.
The group was a mixed crowd of good friends but international in complexion. Two French brothers who have grown into close friends over the years were joined by Federica and Makis both from the island as well as two friends from England, over to enjoy the early season. We left the harbour behind at speed, skimming the flat calm waters of Gaios and heading south. We crossed the channel with beers open and passed by Vrika beach, Niko blasting his horn to a small gathering on the otherwise empty beach.
The beaches of Vrika and Votoumi are unparalleled in the region. Expansive white sand stretching across wide bays, extending into crystal clear shallow water. The summer months see a swell of holiday makers, cruise boats come and go and yachts anchor precariously in the fine sand. But for now the beach was empty and we were headed elsewhere. We motored past the port and tied up to a rock outcrop, offloading beers and personnel. Keeping a close eye for snakes we cut a rough track through the shrub making a beeline for Makis’ place and the old lighthouse. Along the way we found collections of gently perfumed salt collecting in dried up rock pools, somehow palliative and sweet.
We returned to the boat a little while later in good spirits. The clouds were growing in confidence as we headed for the rock island of Dascalia. Exiting the boat we struggled to keep our footing on the slippery shoreline, Makis the only one able to somehow make it ashore gracefully. He immediately set to work, a small pair of pliers strapped to his ankle, dislocating limpets and small sea snails from the coastal rocks. I left him to it, making the short swim in the cool water to the main island and scrambled barefoot up its rockface to the grassy top. Seagulls alerted by my presence swooped like Stuka dive bombers to protect their nest. Among the rough roots, caper leaves reached sunward growing amongst flowering rock samphire. Sea persillin, acidic and salty little leaves were everywhere – a foraging dream.
With my pockets full of sea herbs I eventually conceded to the increasingly persistent demands of the gulls and retreated to the cliff face – diving into deep blue water to make my escape. By the time I had returned Makis had filled a bucket with the sea molluscs, picking the limpets from the shells and eating them raw. ‘Let’s go’!
As we made it back to our island home a plan had formed and I was keen to get back to my little kitchen. While the limpets are delicious raw, tasting like the sea from where they came, I wanted to cook them. Olive oil hit the pan first, followed by garlic, white wine, and samphire. The little shells were then cleaned and added to the mix. With the lid on they steamed slowly, releasing their liquor and after ten minutes the limpets had released from their homes falling into the broth. The snails were more difficult and I set about popping out the sweet flesh with a small fork. As the broth reduced I added a pinch of Greek saffron bringing a delicate note of spice to proceedings. The dish was finished with some of the salty caper and sea herbs. Delicious!
This was by no means a quick meal but it was a solid return on our investment that day. We had found our dinner, we had climbed, dived and slipped our way to a meal that was entirely free and provided by the land and sea. We left behind only footprints and took only what was there in abundance. Practically speaking it will be hard to replicate this dish over the coming months, time constraints will limit such free time to the margins of our season but I will no doubt be back on Antipaxos soon … and I might just take a bucket!
Hello, let me introduce myself, Sue, Ionian Villa’s contact on the beautifully un-spoilt island of Ithaca and wedding planner of stylish bespoke celebrations. I moved to Ithaca approximately ten years ago after living on Kefalonia for many years and after meeting my husband!
Ithaca was no stranger to me as often I would hop on the ferry from Kefalonia to visit this special island. After planning our own wedding, I decided to combine and channel my local knowledge, organizational skills, and language ability, establishing Ithaki Weddings, to assist other couples realise their dreams of hosting their weddings in such a unique location.
Waterside churches, private villas, olive groves and secluded beaches are just some of the locations and venues my brides have chosen.Taking inspiration from the islands’ natural beauty every wedding I plan and design is bespoke to each couple ensuring that their dream day is exactly as they envisioned.
Villa venues are always popular offering complete privacy for the perfect intimate wedding or elopement.
A beach wedding is the dream location for many, with so many secluded and beautiful beaches around Ithaca’s rugged coastline it’s a tough choice to make, but a beach accessible only by boat is always the first choice for many couples.
Ithaca is a truly magical island which once visited is very hard to forget, a local legend implies ‘that if you cup your hand under the Kalamos spring and drink its’ ice-cold water you will return again to Ithaca’.
If like me you’ve fallen in love with Ithaca and dream of hosting your own destination wedding on the island, contact me and together we will make it happen.
In Episode 5 of the latest series of The Durrells, the family are invited for dinner by some Italian friends.
Film location for the Durrells’ dinner at The Manor House
The beautiful Manor House was chosen as the filming location for this dinner.
View from the Manor House
You too can be part of the Durrells’ adventure and have a special holiday escape on Corfu at The Manor House.
The Manor House, a mid 18th Century Venetian residence, hides away from the outside world and is a perfect venue for the Durrells. The visitors books contain the signatures of crowned heads and their families, film stars and celebrities – testament to a special comfort and privacy.
A Manor House bedroom
The house has the peaceful feel of a bygone era but modern touches include a 72 square metre pool. The views over the channel between Corfu and the mainland of Greece, are magnificent.
The pool at The Manor House
We can offer good availability in June, July and September for parties up to 10.
Our newsletter brings you Warm Wishes and a Few Things New for the New Year.
Our office has some new family faces. Alex’s wife, Catherine, has joined our team. Catherine (Cat) has spent three years on Paxos as a Representative for Ionian Villas and Scott Williams. She has visited the other Ionian islands and will be revisiting in May.
Cat Watrous
Alex and Cat’s son, Archie, was born last September and will be on the May familiarisation trip to the islands!
Archie at the Office
For us, 2017 was the busiest and also the longest season – May and October in the Ionian are becoming more popular for warm weather escapes from more temperamental northern European climates.
May and October are possibly the best months to explore the islands on foot. Sea water and swimming pool water can, however, be bracing in May so a stay in a private apartment (with a good sea view) on the outskirts of a port or village, is fun and economical. For example:
Mermaid Cottage on Paxos has Loggos waterfront as a doorstep and in May is £570 per week.
Mermaid Cottage
Katy’s Apartment on Kefalonia has Fiscardo as a doorstep and is £500 per week in May.
We have added some new Ionian properties to our 2018 programme:
Inter-island communications are improving. For 2018 there is talk of the seaplane returning to link Corfu and Paxos and possibly the other more southern Ionian islands. We have also heard that a new ferry is being operated between Corfu, Lefkas, Kefalonia and Zakynthos. Sky Express already operate a flight linking Corfu, Preveza (for Lefkas), Kefalonia, Zakynthos and Athens. Apart from the regular inter-island hydrofoil and ferry services it is now possible to charter a private speedboat.
Ionian Seaplane
We understand that an island hopping holiday may not appeal to families wanting to limit overall travel but with this new choice of transferring from one island to another it can be seen as an exciting alternative.
And if you are a couple with more flexible time on your hands – let us know if you would like us to tailor-make an Ionian Island Hopping trip for you.
Talking about flights – there’s a new BA flight from Heathrow to Kefalonia starting mid May 2018 – Tuesday and Saturday departures.
For many of us it is difficult to know what wines to sample when on holiday in Greece. The ubiquitous and often bland “house wine” poured from taverna boxes will not show off what Greece is now producing.
On Paxos there is now an opportunity to explore the tastes of the grapes, regions and wineries of Greece from the comfort of your holiday villa. Andreas stocks some excellent wines from wineries he has selected from his annual research trips (someone’s got to do it!). He has his wine shop in Lakka but with a few days notice he can bring a selection of wines to your Paxos villa. He will give you an interesting history to the making of each wine. Best to give him a few likes & dislikes so he can tailor the selection for you. Then – when you return to Paxos for your next holiday you can arrange for Andreas to deliver your favourite wines for your arrival!
We came across an interesting blog about some of the Greek grapes
New hideaway bar in Corfu Town
The Palace and gardens of Mon Repos, surrounded by hillsides of pine forest, stand above the sea on the outskirts of Corfu Town.
Mon Repos Palace was built as a summer residence for the British Lord High Commissioner of the United States of the Ionian Islands in 1828. When the Ionian islands were ceded back to Greece in 1864, the Palace became the residence of Greece’s King George 1. The Greek royal family used it as a summer residence up until King Constantine II fled the country in 1967 and the Palace was repossessed by the Greek State.
Several royal births have taken place at the villa, including those of Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh on 10 June 1921, and Princess Alexia of Greece and Denmark on 10 July 1965.
The Palace and its gardens are now being used as an archaeological museum.
At the foot of the Palace’s forested hillside a sheltered beach, once the bathing spot for the Greek royal family, is now open to the public and has an excellent café bar and restaurant. “The Royal Baths” is close to Garitsa waterfront but its walled gardens (bordered by around 50 old-school, wooden changing huts) are a peaceful escape from the world outside – well worth a visit if you have time on Corfu.
The Royal Baths
Royal Baths’ changing huts
If you feel like a return to the Ionian this year and need some ideas – call us!
If you have time – add us as a friend on Facebook and give us a Like or follow us on Instagram for some Ionian holiday inspiration!
We wish you all the very best for 2018 – may all your dreams come true!
This Blog was written by our Ionian Villas manager on Ithaca, Sue White.
Sue lived on Kefalonia for 18 years and has now been living on Ithaca for 5 years.
Sue is a taxi driver on Ithaca – one of twelve drivers.
Sue looks after our clients and is able to give a valuable, personal insight into the history, culture and lifestyles of Ithaca.
Sue has her own website: Ithaca Travel Services
“A lot of people who visit Greece in the summer are under the impression that there is wall to wall sunshine year-round. In my taxi, apart from being asked the usual list of questions as to how I ended up being an English lady taxi driver on a small Greek island, the conversation then switches to ‘the weather’.
It’s not only tourists who have an interest in the weather. The locals here on Ithaca also have a very healthy interest on the subject, and of course they are all experts! From fishermen, shepherds and even the all-knowing γιαγιαδες (grand matriachs), I hear conflicting predictions about the weather but this last summer they all seemed to agree with each other. In August temperatures of 40 Degrees the talk was of a ‘βαρύ Χειμώνας’ (a heavy winter) – and they were right.
After a reasonably mild November and December, the New Year kicked off with freezing cold temperatures and snow, swiftly followed by days of torrential rain. For the first time in 10 years the snow settled all over the island – not just the mountain villages but also on the beaches!
January snow on an Ithaca olive tree
When the snow was washed away by days of relentless rain, the mountain streams flowed down the valleys to resemble a Lake District landscape (apart from the olive trees!). Ithaca, an island rich in pasture land and olive groves, is now super lush and green.
Snowy Stavros village
One of the effects of the snow, say the fishermen, shepherds and γιαγιαδες, is that invasive bugs have been frozen and they are now predicting a good olive harvest next October.”
