The Elgin Marbles Debate

Photo – The Elgin Marbles

Browsing in a second hand bookshop in Sherborne I came across a book: “Through Greece and Dalmatia” – published in 1912 to show “a diary of impressions recorded by pen & picture by Mrs Russell Barrington.”

When Mrs Barrington was in Athens she wrote: “The most glorious jewel in the crown of Athens – the Parthenon – in the dazzling fair light of the morning sun – the finest edifice on the finest site in the world, hallowed by the noblest recollections that can stimulate the human heart.”

She then goes on to say “A feeling of shame creeps over one with the thought that in the dingy, foggy precincts of Bloomsbury, the gloomy prison of the British Museum, the English have incarcerated so many of its glories. Ah! that those matchless sculptures had been left blooming in their beauty under these cloudless skies, warmed, as if to life, under the rays of this sunshine – the smile, it would seem, of their own especial gods. We are told we should console ourselves with the thought that the actual work by Pheidias and his pupils is better preserved in our Bloomsbury dungeon than had it been left in its birthplace. Still, standing here, face to face with the wreck of their original dwelling-place, and thinking of the dark, depressing, foggy atmosphere of their present habitation, we feel as we do when a lark is encaged, and, protesting, we are told it would probably have been killed by a hawk, or ensnared by the poulterer, if it had been left its liberty.

That Lord Elgin did well to seize them, and preserve them from utter destruction, no one can doubt; but now that their right preservation would be as much secured on the Parthenon as in England, surely England should rise to a generous magnanimity, and return the originals to their right home, and substitute casts for them in our Museum.”

Paxos, More Than Just a Pretty Face

When my father and I started up Greek Islands Club on Paxos in the late 1960’s we arranged holidays from the beginning of April until the end of October.

In more recent years the islands, including Paxos, have experienced a shortening of the summer season. Both tour operators and charter flight airlines are not able to risk a poor uptake on holiday bookings during May and October.

As a general rule the colours and warmth of Spring in the Ionian arrive up to a month earlier than in northern Europe. As I write this I have just been emailed a photo of our Paxos mimosa tree exploding with fuzzy yellow blossom. Friends spent this last Christmas on Paxos and swam in the sea every day.

A small group of Paxiots have put together the beginnings of a programme called Off Season Paxos. Local islanders and specially invited guests will introduce whoever is interested to the island’s many attributes in a personalised way, which is not possible in the hotter and busier summer months.

From 11th March to 26th March 2013 a group of locals are offering to share their beautiful island with a more intrepid visitor. Everyone involved is doing so on a voluntary basis and visitors will only have to pay for board and keep.

There will be guided walks, yoga sessions, cookery lessons, theatre and dance, Greek language lessons, traditional songs from local musicians and impromptu activities involving most of the island’s villages.

Tavernas, normally only open during the May to October season, will offer specially prepared dishes during the two weeks.

For more information have a look at Off Season Paxos

Ideal Honeymoon Getaways in the Ionian Sea

Photo – Dexa Beach House

When planning a honeymoon many people will want a Caribbean beach destination. I wouldn’t want to put a dampener on this but here are some important considerations when comparing the Caribbean and a Greek island as a honeymoon destination:

Travel expense: a flight to the Caribbean costs a lot more than to Greece.

Travel time: A whole day is needed to get to the Caribbean & the same on the way back plus the ensuing days of jetlag lethargy.

Indigenous food: I have been amazed at how little food is produced and served at Caribbean resorts – there appeared to be a dependence on imports from USA.

Cost of staying at the water’s edge: usually very expensive in the Caribbean.

Island hospitality: it often requires inginuity and a bit of hard work to get to know native Caribbean islanders.

Caribbean sunsets: they tend to be early & are over very quickly.

Don’t get me wrong – I love the Caribbean and have had some memorable holidays there but to give you an example of why a Greek island should also be considered, have a look at Dexa Beach House on Ithaca

A flight to Kefalonia is needed (3 hours) and then a ferry to Ithaca (30 minutes). There are just two houses here – just 15 metres from a beach. Olive groves on either side of the houses.

Siestas come easily to the sound of cicadas and lapping waves. A small cantina at the other end of the beach serves local snacks and the nearby port of Vathy has waterfront tavernas offering a delicious variety of cuisine using local produce.

Dexa Beach House costs £500 per week in May and £590 per week in June.

Anywhere you venture on Ithaca you will be greeted by a smile and if you have the time, locals will ask where you are from – many of them, like their forefather Odysseus, have returned from faraway places.

Summer sunsets on Ithaca go on and on and on. The evening light gives an intoxicating warmth to the colours of the sea and olive trees.

It’s all quite romantic.

Your private balcony over the Ionian sea

Paxos offers a simple escape from a crowded world outside.

The tiny port of Loggos, on Paxos’ east coast, has a waterfront of 5 tavernas and 3 cafe bars. Set back from the waterfront are 3 minimarkets, a bakery and the village church. No music bars here – just laid back simplicity and a relaxing opportunity to watch people and the brightly coloured fishing boats.

Levrecchio beach is a walk of 2 minutes. An olive grove borders the beach and frames the dining area of Spiros’ taverna, which serves appertising mezes to the tunes of the lapping sea.

Mermaid Cottage has one of the most sought after locations within Loggos. Not for those aspiring to villa opulence but a romantic haven for those seeking a simple island village retreat with a cafe bar as one neighbour and the expanse of the Ionian sea as another.

Back-packing & Island Hopping Nostalgia in the Ionian Sea

We’ve just returned from a 12-day Ionian island-hopping trip. Comfy villas & apartments on 4 islands. An intriguing alternative to staying in one place.

Sky Express make it all possible. Difficult to arrange if you’re booking a more rigid

package holiday (1 or 2 week durations) but no problem with a more flexible Ionian Villas holiday.

We stayed 3 nights on Paxos at Eliana Cottage, 3 nights on Lefkas at Villa Fotini, 5 nights in Fiscardo, Kefalonia at Katy’s Apartment and the final night on Corfu at the Cavalieri Hotel.

All Sky Express flight departure times made for a comfortable trip – the 8am hydrofoil from Paxos to Corfu gave us time for an airport coffee before the 10am flight to Preveza (Lefkas).

The flight time between islands is just 15 minutes. The cost is around £45 per person for each island hop flight.

Roman Abramovich’s Yacht Seen in the Ionian Sea!

Photo – Mr Abramovich’s Luna on Lefkas

This photo was taken from the terrace of Villa Kalithea on Lefkas last September. It shows Roman Abramovich’s motor yacht “Luna” in Poros Bay on the Lefkas’ south east coast.

Two days after the photo was taken “The World” (the largest privately owned yacht on the planet) called in for a brief stay.

Poros has a sleepy waterfront of just a few tavernas (fresh fish from the local fishermen), a small supermarket and a wide beach of brilliant white pebbles. No nightclubs, no traffic lights, no football pitch – even Roman needs a break.

Villa Kalithea sits above Poros Bay with total privacy and enjoys magnificent views over a silver and blue Ionian sea.

Are you an Extreme Escapist? Find out in Paxos

Photo – Voutoumi Bay, AntiPaxos

On Paxos you can escape the crowds. There are no large hotels, only 3 small ports and the island is covered by olive groves hiding sleepy hamlets. It’s not that strenuous to get there: a 3 hour flight from UK to Corfu, a 10 minute taxi to the port and a 1-hour hydrofoil journey. If, for you, Paxos does not provide enough of an escape but you are still expecting comfort and a swimming pool – try AntiPaxos.

The idea of a holiday escape to a tiny Greek island will appeal to many people. Ingredients of a real escape will probably include a completely different environment, peace and quiet, balmy evenings, warm seas and the freedom to do what one wants when one wants. The tiny island of AntiPaxos has all these ingredients but it’s important to peek under the surface to make sure it’s the right escape for you.

Villa Violetta and Phoenica provide total privacy. Pathways lead from each house to two sandy beaches. There are no roads, no street lights and no traffic lights. You might spot the odd beaten-up jeep but donkey transport is predominant. Goat paths criss-cross the island – many walking trails. With a population of around 20 one is unlikely to bump into many people. With no light pollution the night sky is theatrical.

But – there are no shops (Violetta’s & Phoenica’s caretaker can deliver provisions from Paxos or the regular speedboat service between the islands allows you to shop on Paxos). There are only 4 tavernas and they do not always open at night. Excursion boats call into the two sandy bays most mornings and disgorge scantily clad day trippers for a few hours.

AntiPaxos is 4 kilometres long, 2 kilometres wide and lies 1 mile south of Paxos (a 20 minute speedboat trip). A wilderness of maquis and wild olive trees hides a small number of cottages and private vineyards. When the last inter island speedboat departs at 5.30pm you should have the sandy beaches to yourselves. There are only 3 villas for rent on the island.

A stay on AntiPaxos will provide an unusual and romantic escape but without the usual trappings and distractions of a more built-up resort, it’s important that you get on with your partner!

When is Best to Book a Greek Island Holiday

Understandably the Greeks are finding it hard to accept punitive austerity measures and their future still remains uncertain.

It might appear flippant to talk up tourism to Greece but visitors to Greece are needed this time more than any other. The opportunities to forgo our busy lifestyles for a relaxed escape on a beautiful Greek island are still there.

Athens no doubt will continue to be the central stage for Greeks to protest against these measures but on the islands, where there tends to be more self sufficiency in lifestyles, people are more philosophical. Here you will hear Greeks complain about price and taxation increases but most are self employed or dependent on tourism for income and they are therefore not all affected as seriously as the employed or unemployed on the mainland.

It would appear that most tour operators (companies selling package holidays) are suffering from a very slow start to the holiday booking season for Greece. For Ionian Villas , a new business, we have been busy with enquiries for all Ionian islands.

If you are thinking about a holiday on a Greek island this year but you reckon that it’s best to wait a while before booking – you might benefit from panic offers but you might also be faced with a limited supply and therefore increased cost of flights (caused by tour operators “consolidating” their programmes and charter flights being cancelled). Scheduled carriers like Easyjet watch the supply and demand of charter flights very carefully when pricing their own flights.

Naturally we would advise to book early to secure what is best for you and to take your money now rather than later! At Ionian Villas (we are booking agents for individual property owners and not a package holiday company), we are happy to help if a price is outside your budget. If a particular property appeals but the price is too high, let us know and we can speak to the owner to see if a reduction can be made. No guarantees but it’s always worth asking – and it might help you secure your flights before a possible price increase.

A Godly view on Cephalonia

Photo – Villa Artemis

Zeus, the “big cheese” God, was God of the Sky & Thunder. In Greek mythology he was named as Dias the “Divine King”. It is said that when he created the world he threw his last remaining building stones into the seas of Cephalonia and that one of these stones became what is now the tiny island of Dias Rock. The island is home to a 500 year old chapel, which was built on the remains of the ancient temple of Thios.

A mix of history and mythology tells us that a sanctuary for priests once existed at the top of Mount Aenos and that sacrifices were made whenever they saw smoke rising from the altar sacrifices at the temple of Thios.

Villa Artemis overlooks Dias Rock and has views across the sea to Zakynthos.

Hire a boat from nearby Makris Yalos beach, tie up at Dias Rock and climb the 100 steps to visit the chapel of Panayia Diotissa. On 2nd July there is a festival to honour Saint Diotissa and the villagers of Pessada, who own Dias Rock, go across to celebrate.

Discover the Real Ithaca

Ithaca is an island which will appeal to those wanting to escape a busy, noisy lifestyle. But will there be enough to occupy the wound-up mind, which sometimes needs more than a week to jettison unwanted pressures and can refuse to sit happily with simple and peaceful island distractions?

Recharging batteries is important and the small ports of Kioni and Frikes are perfect sleepy venues to do little but gaze at fishermen cleaning their nets. Island exploration however, will introduce many more natural delights to help the mind forget home based anxieties.

Hiring a boat (with outboard engine) is a great way to find a deserted beach and explore a beautiful coastline with just the company of seabirds. Pack a picnic or moor up alongside one of Kioni or Frikes’ waterfront tavernas for lunch.

Hiring a car will provide easy access to many parts of Ithaca but the more hidden parts are more difficult to find.

Katrina Parsey is our Ionian Villas agent on Ithaca. Katrina is a poet, storyteller and walker. With a few winter breaks back in UK as an actress, theatre director, writer and teacher, Katrina has spent the last 12 years on Ithaca. Over these years she has discovered a variety of walking trails and now leads daily walks (when the weather is not too hot) to introduce Ithaca’s more inquisitive visitor to the island’s people, history, mythology, flora, fauna and hidden landscapes.

Katrina says “Join me on a cultural walk exploring the sites and stories of Odysseus and Penelope. Or come along to the Folklore Walk, taste local wine, cheese, oil and olives on an ancient land. See the old olive press and wheat mill at Agrotiri. Walk along shepherds’ trails and discover the past and present of Ithaca’s farming culture.”

Leave your worries on the doorstep and discover an island which many have heard of but few visited.

© 2018 Ionian Villas Limited

Call us on: +44 (0) 1243 820928    ..or email enquiries@ionian-villas.co.uk

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